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Slideshow (32 photos)

Frankenjura (Germany) (map)
 

The formation with Action Direct. The actual route climbs the underbelly of the rear buttress.

 

Super cool crag rising above a small village

 

Super cool crag rising above a small village

 

Super cool crag rising above a small village

 

Standard lowering hardware in the Frankenjura, which isn't the easiest thing to climb in moments of desperation

 

Kurt Albert started the whole red dot thing, which later became the "redpoint"

  Hartenstein
 

The small town of Hartenstein with several crags nearby

 

On the way out of town to the crag

  Hartensteiner Wand
 

Igor: An open but amazingly dark forest with a pretty good crag. Rayko runs it out to the first bolt.

  Klein Wacht
 

Bergzigeunerweg: Rayko gains big holds after a pumpy traverse. Notice the route book midway across the traverse.

  Lungsdorf
 

Small villiage of Lungsdorf, which is nothing more than a bend in the road. We did climb a pretty cool tower just above town.

 

Trebbla: Signing the route book at the top of the tower

 

Trebbla: Starting up the tower above Lungsdorf

  Martinswand
 

Schwarzer Riss: In the rain, we lucked upon this severely overhanging amphitheater with several dry routes

  Napoleon
 

Westriss: A beautiful crack climb reminiscent of the Dolomites (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Hiding from the rain in a cave at the base of the Napoleon tower (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Südwestwand: This free-standing tower, to our surprise, was about 10" thick

 

Südwestwand: Rayko straddling the top of the tower

  Riffler
 

Our first climbing stop in Frankenjura

  Roter Fels
 

Luftige Wand: Random climber seconding a pretty cool line

  Rötelfels
 

Büberriss: Pretty cool climbing down low, but an unprotected chimney up high (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

  Soranger Wand
 

Sauwetter: Lowering off a super steep climb at the end of the day (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

  Student
 

Amazed by this formation, we vowed to return, only to discover that all the routes are hard

  Velden
 

Our little apartment in Velden, a 5-minute walk from the main square

 

Best food in Bavaria, or so we thought

 

Standard dinnertime activities -- email, route research, and taking notes from the days outing

 

Buying strawberries and other vegies

 

Purchasing the daily supply of lunch meat

  Weiße Wand
 

View from the top of the cliff; the approach follows the dirt road

  Weißenstein
 

It rained, so everybody headed for the overhanging roadside crag

 

Super steep roadside climbing, mostly Czech climbers

  Wolkensteiner Wand
 

Corazon: A difficult and long route with several cruxes. Too bad it's out of focus.