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Slideshow (752 photos)

Adirondacks (map)
 

The Matrix: The Matrix Epic

 

Sufferin' Succatash: Midway up one of the stellar chimney climbs, right of the rock route "3D"

 

Matrix Direct, The Other One: My first try on leashless tools; I failed miserably, lowering off just after this point

 

Keymaster: Jim climbs the first ascent of Keymaster, a mixed route just right of Gatekeeper (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

 

Posing on the lake after completing Killer Whale

 

H14: Series 1: Clipping the pin that Joe thankfully placed on the first ascent

 

H14: Series 2: Delicate moves are required to keep the little remaining ice intact

 

H14: Series 3: Near the end of the difficulties

 

Big Brother: Approaching the final free-hanging pillar on Big Brother

 

Buford: Climbing the initial steep pillar on Buford; this pillar is shared between Bubba, Buford, and Ice Storm

 

Buford: Moving up the final overhanging smear of ice at the top of the route; the crux of the route is the traverse connecting the pillar of Bubba to the yellow drips on the right

 

Unknown: The free-hanging pillar is the crux of this route, although the unprotected climbing above is engaging

 

Runaway Jury: A nice face climb at the Courthouse

 

Life During Wartime: First free ascent of Life During Wartime, Echo Cliff

 

Staring out into space on the top of Sunrise Mountain near Elk Lake

 

Lucky Stars: Jim on the first ascent of Lucky Stars (5.11R) at Good Luck Cliff

 

Direct South Face: Topping out on the South Face route

 

Jim at Heart Lake in 1978

 

Route of Opressive Power: Dennis leads the crux of the route while Jim belays

 

Jim hiking in the mid 1970s

Posing with Lori

 

Geriatric Profanity Disorder: Following up GPD in the fall

 

The gang at the Winter camp, late 70's

 

Cheese and Crackers: Just past the crux on the fragile upper columns

 

Kingdom Come: Jim belays Chris who is following the second pitch; the traverse is hard, but made easier using chimney moves with your back

Kingdom Come: Jim climbs the first pitch (5.11c) of Kingdom Come; the route continues left, then climbs the broken arching rock rightwards to a belay

 

Kingdom Come: Closeup of Jim on the first pitch

 

Unexpected Pleasures: Leading the top section of Unexpected Pleasures on Knob Lock

 

Lock and Load: Don't Listen to your Friends (Copyright © Ade Miller)

 

Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish: Topping out on the crux in thin conditions

 

Lock and Load: Topo of Lock Ness

 

Lock and Load: Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load

 

Lock and Load: Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load

 

The Best Ice Route in the Philippines: Jim leading the first ascent of The Best Ice Route in the Philippines

 

Too Early: Simeon leading the first ascent of Too Early on the lower wall of Lock Ness

 

Camera Trouble: Jim leading in a snow storm on Camera Trouble on the upper wall of Lock Ness

 

Fear of Flying: Leading the offwidth 3rd pitch

 

Creation of the World: At the end of the traverse on the 2nd pitch (5.11a), finally able to place some better gear (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Getting established in the hand crack at the end of the traverse on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: The crack turns to wide fists before becoming off-width just above (2nd pitch) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Approaching the hanging cedar on the 2nd pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Joe belays while Jim eats a granola bar (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Eagle Slab: Lucie and Jim on the Summit of Giant after climbing Eagle Slab

 

Pushing it, after 20 hours (Copyright © Jen Mattson)

 

On the final lap of the 24-hour race (Copyright © Jen Mattson)

 

Drop, Swim, or Die: Climbing the crux column low on the route

 

Drop, Swim, or Die: The second crux climbs the ice above the climber through the constriction in the rock

 

For The Birds: Just above the belay, the climbing is secure, but the ice is melted out and sketchy

 

For The Birds: George does the third ascent in one long pitch while Jim and Joe watch

 

Tres Amigos in the road at Poko

 

Goats Foot: Jim low down on Goats Foot, Poko (Copyright © Tad Welch)

 

Goats Foot: Close-up of Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko

Goats Foot: Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko

Hidden Pique: Jim high in the Hidden Pique corner, Poko (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Bushido: Thin steep ice on Bushido, Poko

 

Positive Thinking: Jim starting the first pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko

 

Positive Thinking: Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch

Positive Thinking: Close-up of Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch

 

Son of Slime: Making the traverse on the first pitch of Son of Slime

 

Son of Slime: Close-up of Jim making the traverse on Son of Slime

 

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

 

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top crux column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

 

Positive Thinking: Leading the third pitch of PT in thin conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

 

Pilgrim's Progress: Jim at the start of the second pitch (yes, those are bolts next to the crack; what you can't see is that the crack is really the left edge of an enormous arrowhead-shaped detached block)

 

Ancient of Days: Pulling through the final overhangs

 

Ancient of Days: About to pull through the final overhangs

 

Morning Star: Straining to pull the final layback move on Morning Star (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

 

Morning Star: The final pitch of Morning Star climbs a steep face to a layback finish around a bulge (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

 

Morning Star: Cleaning a nut on the second pitch (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

 

Hold the Mayo: Hold the Mayo

 

Dark Lord: The opening moves of Dark Lord clims ice under a roof, up into a corner, then onto a free-hanging pillar

 

Dark Lord: Starting up the steep middle section of the route

 

Dark Lord: The crux of the route climbs melted ice on black rock. The ice in the corner is shaded and therefore more solid than the ice on the face.

 

Jim and John on the way to Cragsmere

 

Mental Blocks: Looking down from the roof pitch of Mental Blocks at Stuart, Roger, and Jim

 

Mental Blocks: Jim leading the third pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface

 

Free Ride: Napping on Lunch Ledge, three pitches from the top

 

Free Ride: At the top of the cliff, the route traverses below a giant roof; a couple of hard [Houdini] moves, combined with awesome exposure, make this pitch a "must do"

Alabama Hills (map)

Puzzling out the routes in the Corridor

Pangborn: Dancing up the face

High Plains Drifter: Palming low down on the route (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

High Plains Drifter: Thin crimps at the crux (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

High Plains Drifter: Sweet face climbing with high steps (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Alimosa River Canyon (map)
 

Unknown: Looking down after the difficulties

 

Unknown: Climbing the perfect splitter hand crack

 

Unknown: Posing after the difficult initial hand crack

 

Making shadows at sunset

Appalachian Trail (map)
 

Tracy and Jim at the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail -- Springer Mountain

 

Tracy and Jim relaxing after a day of hiking; notice the paper towels, Sierra Club cups, and prototype Marmot bivy sacks

 

Jim and Tracy take a refreshing dip in Frye Brook (Copyright © Tracy Pierce)

 

Relaxing in New Hampshire

Taking pictures in Vermont

 

Tired boy in Virginia

 

This is what happens with lots of exercise and insufficient calories

 

We hiked the Appalachian Trail when I was 15

Arapiles (Australia) (map)
 

Travels in Oz

Bouldering in the early morning light

Resignation: Jim leading steep rock on Resignation

 

Tanin: Leading the top pitch of Tanin

Lamplighter: Jim and Martin at the top of the Pharos after completing Lamplighter

 

Chinese Algebra: Jim at the crux of Chinese Algebra, one of the hardest routes we did at Arapiles

Beaver Creek (map)
 

Batteries Not Included: Belaying Tommy on P1, enjoying the first sun in days (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Batteries Not Included: Rappelling through the "eye" of the needle at the top of Batteries Not Included (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Batteries Not Included: Rappelling through the "eye" of the needle at the top of Batteries Not Included (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Ben Nevis (Scotland) (map)
 

Climbers gearing up at the CIC hut; Jim is the tall one in the orange top (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

On the approach to the CIC hut (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending the Ben toward the Red Burn area

 

Point Five Gully: Standing on the summit plateau after topping out

 

Point Five Gully: Jim on the steep snow fields on the approach to the base of the route. Our ascent was the first for the year, so we were breaking trail. (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Point Five Gully: Leading the first pitch, which was a friable crust over rock (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Point Five Gully: The final belay before topping out (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: Breaking through the cornice onto the flat summit plateau (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Point Five Gully: White out on the summit; Jim is the tall person on the right (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending off the summit through intermetent white out (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Descending from the col back into the valley (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Descending from the col back into the valley (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Descending from the col back into the valley (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Blacktail Butte (map)

Inconceivable: Avoiding the snow in the high country, we retreated to Blacktail Butte and climbed a couple routes (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Inconceivable: Steep, polished limestone at Blacktail Butte (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Blue Cloud Spires (map)
 

Scoping out the topouts of the routes on Elk Rock (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Unknown: Good, well protected climbing at the "top rope area"; at least it's out of the wind. (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Rat King: Big buckets on steep rock, but piggin' cold (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Rat King: Big buckets on steep rock, but piggin' cold (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Boracay (Philippines) (map)
 

Sitting in a tree above the ocean after emerging from Crystal Cave

 

Sunset at Puka Beach; for some reason, this beach seems always empty

British Virgin Islands (Caribbean) (map)
 

Lucie and Jim on the boat somewhere in the Caribbean

Castle Valley (map)
 

North Face: Jim and Casey pose at the top of Castleton Tower after climbing the North Face

Catskills (map)
 

Coal Kill Falls: The only easy route in the Kitchen

Mephisto Waltz: Bones dances up the wet and drippy Mephisto Waltz

 

Gomorrah: At the start of the route in brilliant sunshine

 

Gomorrah: High in the corner; you can see the bolts protecting the route (!?!?)

Central Cordillera (Philippines) (map)
 

Have scotch will travel -- this is the jeepney we hired to travel from Banaue to Sagada

 

Exploring the rice terraces near town

 

Unknown: We regretted not bringing our rock gear to Sagada, as there is plenty of interesting limestone towers to climb, like this one in Echo Valley

Charlevoix-Est (Canada) (map)
 

La Pomme D'or: La Pomme d'Or

Chilliwack (Canada) (map)
 

South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire: On the summit of North Nesakwatch Spire

 

West Ridge, Mt. Rexford: On the summit of Mt. Rexford, looking west

 

Northeast Buttress: Triumph on Slesse with Simon's glasses half eaten by rats

City of Rocks (map)

Colossus: Moving through the initial bulge on big jugs

 

Colossus: Chalking up at the initial bulge; this section is pretty easy because of the large holds…the crux is moving through the hueco near the top of the route

 

Terror in Tiny Town: The start of the route is the mental crux, as one has to layback up the arete on small holds (protected by an RP), shooting for the obvious pocket, clip a bolt on the left, then make long reaches up the arete to better holds

Terror in Tiny Town: Jim grabs the better holds at the start of the route; the technical crux lies above

 

Redtail: The crux of the route is moving past the first bolt, shown here

 

Redtail: Getting established just past the crux after the first bolt

Cochiti Mesa (map)

Wandering around in the rain, which happened every day of our trip (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Colin sketches in the van waiting out the rain (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Finally the sun; we ran out and climbed a few routes before dark

Cody (map)
 

Mean Green: Jim climbs the first pitch (WI4) of Mean Green, belayed by Tommy; the second pitch can be seen above

Colorado National Monument (map)

Otto's Route: A nice spot at the belay at the top of the second pitch (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Otto's Route: The fourth pitch face climb, made easy by the drilled stances (thanks Otto) (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Cordillera Real (Bolivia) (map)
 

Southwest Face, Normal Route: Suiting up for the glacier to high camp

Expedition photo taken by a local in the town of Cocoyo (taken during the trek back from base camp to Sorata)

Costa Blanca (Spain) (map)
 

Looking east from the summit of the Divinio, showing the lower Sella valley and the Mediterranean Sea beyond

 

Ojo de Odra: Clipping the first bolt; the route continues out the mouth of the cave at 6c

 

Jim and John hiking near Sella

 

Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour: The whole crew, after completing the route

 

Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour: Getting read to rap down to the base of the routes by the sea; notice the collection of Wild Country #3 rocks used for the ENP casings

Cotopaxi (Ecuador) (map)
 

Normal Route: Leaving the drop-off point for the hike to the Whymper Refugio (Copyright © Ali Schultheis)

Crawford Notch (map)
 

Dracula: High on Dracula in thin conditions

Cuenca (Spain) (map)
 

Sudor y Sangre: Climbing a beautiful orange corner system

Sudor y Sangre: Climbing a beautiful orange corner system

Cuzco (Peru) (map)
 

The gang poses on the Inca Trail

 

Group on day 3 of the Inca Trail (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Denali National Park (map)
 

Southeast Ridge: Sitting around base camp

Southeast Ridge: Arriving at base camp

 

Southeast Ridge: Fiddling with gear at base camp

 

Southeast Ridge: Setting up a belay on the Southeast Ridge

 

In the airplane waiting for takeoff

Devil's Tower (map)
 

Reading the guidebook, scoping out routes (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Tulgey Wood: At the top of the first pitch (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Dolomites (Italy) (map)
 

Travels with Johnny

 

Jim descending the Sella Towers

Dragoon Mountains (map)
 

Warpaint: The second pitch (5.8) of Warpaint (the only easy pitch on the route)

 

Warpaint: Looking down at Jim (top of P2) and Eric (top of P3) from the middle of the fourth pitch (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

 

Warpaint: Jim leading from the belay on the fifth pitch of Warpaint; the crux of this pitch is just before the photo was taken (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

 

Moby Dick: Jim and Dennis hanging out on the summit of Whale Dome after completing the ascent

 

Moby Dick: Eric and Jim hanging out at the belay at the top of the fourth pitch

 

Moby Dick: Shadow puppets on the summit of Whale Dome

East Rosebud (map)

California Ice: Starting the first pitch (WI4) of California Ice

 

California Ice: The third pitch (WI3) goes to the right of the cave and up to easier ice

El Potrero Chico (Mexico) (map)
 

El Diablos Path: Jim at the third belay of El Diablos Path

El Rito (map)

Blackballed: Jug pulling on a steep, beautiful wall (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Elbsandstein (Germany) (map)
 

Nordwand: At the belay after a terrifying lead, the scariest of the trip (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Nordwand: Roping up for what turned out to be the scariest lead of the trip (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Südwand: Approaching the belay at the end of the first pitch; notice the furry runner around the large flake (the furrier the better) (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Goldsteigkante: Topping out on the second pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Belaying from the top of another tower (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Goldsteigkante: The start of the route involved very pocketed rock with good pro (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Goldsteigkante: Moving through the super featured rock on the first pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Südwand: Looking back at the second pitch, a traversing affair with many tied off flakes and threads

 

Südwand: Starting up the second pitch -- a bit of a run after the first bolt (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Südwand: A long pitch of runout crack climbing, but with good plates on the face. The chimney topout was terrifying (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Dinner in the basement of the town hall; pretty good food, but not as good as in Velden

 

Türkischer Honig: Leaning back on jugs near the top of the route (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: High on the wall at a hanging belay (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: Feeling stoked after leading the first pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: At the second belay…cold as hell (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: Removing a thread on the third pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: On the third pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: On the third pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: The 4th and final pitch involved leaning across to the next tower, then climbing the face (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: Traverse just before the topout (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: Working on some pro -- a threaded runner (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: Looking down from the first belay at the super featured rock and intricate protection

 

Talweg: Starting up the overhanging wall -- a real head game (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: Looking up at the second pitch -- many tied off threads (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: Roping up below the 300'-high overhanging wall with…you guessed it…knots (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Herkules Rippe: Following the first pitch on yet another pigging cold day (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Herkules Rippe: Approaching the belay (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Südhangel: Following the first pitch, leaning way back on a flake (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Südwestverschneidung: Belaying at the top of the Lokomotive; notice the ring and "towel rack" bar to prevent the rope from creating deep grooves in the rock (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Südwestverschneidung: Writing my entry in the route book (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Talweg: Making the crux moves at the start of the route -- an overhanging offwidth crack protected by jammed knots, the first knots I placed in Elbsandstein (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Morgengebet: An overhanging handcrack; the crux was the slopey, sandy moves after the crack (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Ostkante: Browsing the route book (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Ostkante: Huge jugs at the top of the route (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Eldorado Canyon (map)
 

Darkness 'Til Dawn: Climbing the beautiful corner of Darkness

 

Darkness 'Til Dawn: The corner of Darkness 'Til Dawn; actually takes wide gear in the face on the right

 

The Grand Course: Climbing the overhanging hand crack at the start of The Grand Course

 

Blind Faith: Sequence of pictures showing climbing through the crux of Blind Faith

 

Blind Faith: Climbing though an awkward bulge below the crux crack

 

Blind Faith: Placing gear into the crux crack

Blind Faith: Jamming through the final steep crack

Franconia Notch (map)
 

Black Dike: The Black Dike (Copyright © Ade Miller)

 

Black Dike: Climbers Meet the Fuck Man

 

Whitney-Gilman: Jim on the Whitney-Gilman in 1986

Black Dike: Jim, just after the rock traverse on the Black Dike

Bennedictus Direct: Pulling the monster roof on the 5th pitch (Copyright © David Le Pagne)

Bennedictus Direct: Climbing the slab below the overlap on the 5th pitch (Copyright © David Le Pagne)

 

Bennedictus Direct: Nabbing the jug in the roof on the 5th pitch (Copyright © David Le Pagne)

 

Bennedictus Direct: Approaching the overlap on the 5th pitch (Copyright © David Le Pagne)

Bennedictus Direct: At the belay at the start of the 4th pitch, scoping out the pitch ahead (Copyright © Brian Post)

Bennedictus Direct: Following the 4th pitch (Copyright © Brian Post)

Bennedictus Direct: Taking a photo as Will leads the 4th pitch (Copyright © Brian Post)

Frankenjura (Germany) (map)
 

Westriss: A beautiful crack climb reminiscent of the Dolomites (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Hiding from the rain in a cave at the base of the Napoleon tower (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Büberriss: Pretty cool climbing down low, but an unprotected chimney up high (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Sauwetter: Lowering off a super steep climb at the end of the day (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Fruita (map)
 

Descending a section of the classic Joe's Ridge

 

Another section of the classic Joe's Ridge

God's Crag (map)

Approaching the mine shaft; no, we didn't go in it, especiallty after The Descent (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Approaching God's Crag (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Descending in the rain through a grove of aspens; we picked up a hundred ticks here (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Fear is Never Boring: Cool face climbing on the first pitch (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Fear is Never Boring: Self portrait, belaying in the rain

Golden, Colorado (map)
 

The morning after the big bash…everyone is drinking water to treat the hangover

Granite Mountain (map)

Falling Ross: Nearing the top of P2 (Copyright © Emilie Drinkwater)

Falling Ross: Delicate moves onto the slippery slab at the top of P2 (Copyright © Emilie Drinkwater)

Great Falls (map)
 

P.V.O. (Potomac Valley Overhang): Jim on PVO, TRing something way to hard

Guangzhou (China) (map)
 

Street life in Guangzhou (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Jim on ferry going up the Pearl River (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Hawaii (map)
 

Boogie boarding in the surf, somewhere on the north shore (Copyright © John Lawyer)

Hellgate Gulch (map)
 

Aimless wandering through the compact canyon, trying to identify things (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Melt Down: Not much difference between the 11s and the 9s on this wall (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Melt Down: Not much difference between the 11s and the 9s on this wall (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Hong Kong (China) (map)

The Arete: Jim at the belay on Catastrophe (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

The Arete: Jim at the belay on Catastrophe

Independence Pass (map)
 

Squid Kid: Climbing the beautiful compact rock on Squid Kid

 

The Maze: Face climbing on the Maze, a long bolted line on Monitor Rock

Indian Creek (map)
 

Enjoying a mini-bottle of single malt at camp

 

Thunderbolts: Sitting on top of Easter Island after climbing Thunderbolts

 

Thunderbolts: Climbing the first pitch (5.8) involves fun jamming, followed by an unlikely traverse right around the nose above

 

Hanging out at the base of Easter Island

 

Thunderbolts: Jim's shadow on Sunflower Tower as he raps from Easter Island

 

Generic Crack: Starting out on Generic Crack; the crux of the route are the two pods just above

 

Generic Crack: About halfway up the crack

 

Generic Crack: Closeup of Jim about halfway up the crack

 

Generic Crack: Still about halfway up the crack

 

Generic Crack: Nearing the anchors at 140'

 

Anunnaki: This awesome zig-zag crack goes through all sizes, taking two each from yellow Camalot to yellow Alien; this section is fairly easy since the crack is hand sized

 

Anunnaki: At this point, the crack narrows to off-hands and rattley fingers

 

Anunnaki: Moving through the crux involves weird layaways, finger stacks, and powerful pulls

 

Skidmarks: Laybacking up the steep finger crack on Skidmarks

 

Sabbatical: Jamming the final crack high in the Sabbatical corner, belayed by Brian

 

Working Man: This nice finger crack was easier for me since my large knuckles cammed well in the crack

 

Some rough 4X4 driving on Davis Canyon Road leads into the South Six Shooter valley

 

Bad Rad Duality Crack: Moving through the bottom finger-sized section of the route

 

Bad Rad Duality Crack: Moving through the bottom finger-sized section of the route; the crack widens to tight hands, then offwidth, then back to tight hands through the double-tiered roofs above

 

The Incredible Hand Crack: Jim climbs The Incredible Hand Crack, belayed by Brian; most people find this climb a pleasure, but my large large hands didn't fit the crack and made the crux overhanging section very strenuous

 

Unnamed #18: What a beast this was -- a 7" off-width section, then a blind reach rightwards into a good finger crack

 

Unnamed #18: After placing a nut (the only nut I placed that trip), I finally got established in the finger crack

 

Unnamed #18: Closeup of Jim after placing the nut

 

Unnamed #18: Higher in the finger crack

Inman Gulf (map)
 

It's In, Man: Traversing to the belay on a new route

 

It's In, Man: At the belay on the first ascent

 

It's In, Man: Jim climbs poorly bonded ice on the first ascent

 

Over The Rainbow: Leading the first ascent of a flow across from Rainbow Falls

Ithaca (map)

Estes Point Pillar: High on the pillar the ice is fractured and thin, with water visible through the ice veil

 

Estes Point Pillar: Jim belays Leslie on the steep section of the pillar

 

Estes Point Pillar: The climb as seen from the streambed

Joshua Tree (map)
 

Dangling Woo Li Master: Steep ground in the Bighorn Mating Grotto

 

Taped up hands after a day of climbing in the Bighorn Mating Grotto; notice the Disney band-aid on the middle finger

 

Pinched Rib: Steck's favorite route

 

Eileen Dover: This interesting route starts with a hard boulder problem, then traverses just left 5 bolts about 10' above the ground, then finishing straight up to some chains

 

Eileen Dover: A little further along in the traverse; lots for the hands, but little for the feet

 

Effigy Too: The opening, unprotected moves of Effigy Too

 

Effigy Too: Effigy Too is a nice route for sunny days as it's in the shade. The huge boulder high and left is the EBGBs boulder.

 

Effigy Too: The climbing eases near the top of the route

 

Pullups To Pasadena: Unprotected knob climbing at the start of yet another Swain route

 

Garden Angel: Weird layback moves up the arete of Garden Angel

Garden Angel: Weird layback moves up the arete of Garden Angel

 

Lori and Jim pose on top of the Headstone

 

Head Over Heels: Tall people can simply reach left and bypass any difficulty; not sure what short people do

 

Dazed and Confused: Thin face moves characterize climbing on this route

 

Dazed and Confused: Runout climbing in a sea of granite

 

Lori and Jim pose on top of the Manure Pile at dusk

 

Left Mel Crack: Climbing the height-related crux of the Left Mel Crack

 

Clean and Jerk: Long reaches on overhanging rock constitute the crux of Clean and Jerk

 

Clean and Jerk: One of the best hand/fist cracks in the park

 

O'Kelley's Crack: Opening moves -- despite the rating of 5.10c, the initial moves are 5.11a

 

The whole gang

 

Hanging out at the campfire in Ryan

Illusion Dweller: Low on the all time perfect crack

 

Junk Food: The route Junk Food traverses the Junk Clump formation on a quartz dike; it begins with two bolts, then crosses three other routes

 

Born in a Barn: A route on the Shorter Wall, the right-hand side of the Rock Garden Valley

 

Solid Gold: Following up the sharp edges of Solid Gold; this climb is quite the finger shredder

 

Solid Gold: Simon leading the lower section of Solid Gold

Rubicon: Jim and Allen on Rubicon

 

No Self Confidence: The crux is the section just before the roof on the left where the crack is tight hands

 

No Self Confidence: Steep, sustained crack climbing in the midsection of the route

 

No Self Confidence: Feeling pumped, this is the last rest before running it out to the top

 

Allen Steck Memorial Route: At dusk on the Memorial Route

 

Orphan: Leading the initial stemming corner of Orphan; if you can stomach the off-width at the top, this is an excellent climb

 

Boogers on a Lampshade: Making the crux moves on Boogers; the high bolt protects this section

Boogers on a Lampshade: After the crux; the next piece is the tied off chicken head visible just above

 

Lunch break on the ledge system in front of the Astro Domes

 

Drop Zone: In the midst of the crux at Sheepbugger's Wall; the difficulty here is that the protection is at your feet while making the crux .11 moves…below that is a ledge!

 

Figures on a Landscape: About to make the crux moves on the first pitch

Kama Bay (Canada) (map)
 

Icebreakers Arete: Climbing Icebreakers Arete in early season

 

Icebreakers Arete: The crux of Icebreakers Arete involved climbing an overhanging cauliflower of ice

Kandersteg (Switzerland) (map)
 

Bäretritt: At the base of the fragile pillar

Bäretritt: We climbed the rock on the left to avoid breaking the fragile pillar

 

Bäretritt: High on the route, pumped, and looking for a belay

Arbonium: Traversing left at the start of P2

La Cabrera (Spain) (map)
 

Jim and Belen pack for the hike back to the car after a full day climbing

La Pedriza (Spain) (map)
 

Vía del Gesto: This route demanded thin laybacking, high-angle friction, and tiny crimping and was the most difficult route I climbed at La Pedriza

Lake Willoughby (map)
 

The Last Gentleman: The Last Gentleman (Copyright © Ade Miller)

The Last Gentleman: Leading the fragile third pitch of the Gentleman

 

Mindbender: Jim leading the initial sections of Mindbender

 

The Promenade: Jim nearing the cave at the top of the first pitch of The Promenade

 

Called on Account of Rains: Leading the thin ice on the first pitch of Called; the route steepens just above, then stretches the rope to the cave visible beneath a hanging pillar on the right

 

Called on Account of Rains: The crux of the route climbs is the steeper section of ice just below the cave belay

Leavenworth (map)
 

Doin' The Dishes: Toproping back when it was cool to do so (5.11d)

 

Orbit: Kristy and Jim Cruise Orbit

 

Don't Forget Arete: Climbing an arete in Icicle Creek Canyon

Little Cottenwood Canyon (map)
 

Coffin Crack: Low down on Coffin Crack

Little Falls (map)
 

Unknown: Kind of a crappy picture, but shows my early climbing days -- wool knickers, Fires, and a hammer

Green Traverse: Bouldering on Moss Island

Lumpy Ridge (map)
 

Tailgate party after a day of climbing (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Hiking into Lumpy for the day (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Fat City: Moving up the .10a finger crack to the crux roof on the second pitch; the roof is climbed at the crack just above the helmet

 

Jim at the base of the Bookmark (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Inside Straight: Sequence of pictures showing climbing the flaring off-width

 

Inside Straight: Stuffing gear high into the off-width

 

Inside Straight: Laybacking the outer edge seems to be the way forward, although it's waaay pumpy

 

Inside Straight: Disappearing into the off-width; this is actually climbed on the outside, but it's hard to make the transition

Romulan Territory: Climbing the crux bulge on the second pitch; the difficulty of this pitch is in placing gear, as it's thin and technical

Meadow River Gorge (map)
 

Cross-Eyed and Blind: Jeremy at the crux of the .11a on the left side of the wall

Meteora (Greece) (map)
 

Travels in Greece

 

Es geht auch ohne!: Jim and Nikos on the last route before leaving the beautiful Meteora

Fingertip and Sky: Jim attempting a harder route (VIII+)

 

Line of the Fallen Drop: Jim leading on large knobs (notice the tied off knob)

Milan (Italy) (map)
 

Tour gang in Milan

Moab (map)
 

Pinhead: Broken rock and interesting sidepulls make this route surprisingly fun

Mt. Kenya (Kenya) (map)
 

Killing time at Top Hut, the building next to the Austrian Hut

 

Stormy weather moves in after setting up camp near the Austrian Hut (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Reviewing route beta (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Ravenous after our successful ascent of Nelion (4 hours) (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Looking tired after our climb (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Lucie comes out to celebrate when we return from the summit (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Group shot in front of Nelion (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Southwest Ridge: Jim sets an anchor to wait out the storm (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Southwest Ridge: Horrible rappelling in the snow on the descent (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Drinking juice boxes so we don't have to carry them (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Writing in the journal at camp at the start of the approach (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Our first day on the approach to Mt. Kenya (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

On the hike up to Mintos Hut (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Hanging out in front of the filthy Mintos Hut (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Filtering water for the day in one of the lakes near Mintos Hut (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Jumping a bog in Temple Fields in a forest of giant groundsel (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Resting at Tooth Col (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Just about at the Mintos Hut on our first day of the approach (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

On the endless slog up to the Austrian Hut, Lucie begins to feel sick (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

On the final approach to Austrian Hut (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Eating at McKinder's Camp (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Talking about options…should we climb another route? (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Must have a little sun block (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Descending back to the roadhead, just entering the jungle (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Resting at the Met Station, totally beat (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Repacking on the hike out (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Jim washes up, first time in 2 weeks (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Jim washes up, first time in 2 weeks (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Descending through the jungle to the Met Station (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

On the final march to the forest gate, glad to be done with it (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Normal Route: Sitting at a belay high on the route

 

Normal Route: Jim sitting in front of the Howell Hut

 

Normal Route: Victorious on the summit of Nelion

 

Normal Route: Enjoying the view from the summit of Nelion

Normal Route: Hanging out on the summit; the clouds are already starting to develop for the afternoon snow

 

Normal Route: Traversing the glacier to the start of the route on a recon outing (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Normal Route: Zigzagging up ledges at the start of the route (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Normal Route: Leading up to the ridge past Baileys Bivy (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Normal Route: Traversing and dealing with the ropes (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Normal Route: Examining the single-point rappel anchor; looks good (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Mt. Lemmon (map)
 

Infidel: Entering the crux high on the first pitch; this is another difficult-to-find route on the flanks of Mt. Lemmon (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

 

Great Expectations: Leading the second pitch (5.8), thankful to be out of the chimney below

 

Birthday Girl: The initial slab moves on Birthday Girl, Anduriel Tower

 

Jim hanging out at the top of Rupley Tower C

 

Hitchcock: Lori climbs up the west side of the pinnacle

 

Nang: Jim near the start of Nang, Blazing Fin Tower

 

Jim and Lucie on the ridge at Windy Point

Mt. Whitney (map)
 

East Face: Posers in front of Mt. Whitney

 

The gang gathered in LA after the trip to Yosemite and Mt. Whitney (Copyright © Stuart Williams)

 

East Face: Displaying the giant rack (Copyright © Stuart Williams)

 

East Face: Lookin' stupid on the summit of My. Whitney (Copyright © Stuart Williams)

Nairobi (Kenya) (map)
 

Lucie kisses a giraffe named Lynn (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Dining out in Nairobi (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Nantucket (map)
 

Lucie and Jim sitting on the wharf

Narrows (map)
 

Banana: Climbing the Banana, the ice route high and right of Main Flow; this is perhaps the first ascent in 7 years of this route

 

Levitator: Climbing the start of the Levitator, which is typically M7, but is unusually fat in these conditions

Negros Island (Philippines) (map)

On top of the only climbable rock on Apo Island, you can see the beach where we had lunch and relaxed between dives

New River Gorge (map)
 

Thems Jammer's Hands

 

Jim and Lucie sitting at the base of Burning Calves, Beauty Mountain

 

Chasing The Wind: The 2nd pitch finger crack -- very hard moves intersperced with rests and great protection; I placed nearly an entire set of wires in this 100' pitch

 

Jaws: Shoe-ing up after climbing Jaws (and 10 hours of driving)

 

At the start of "Bonemaster", belayed by Joe

Easy climbing in the midsection of the route

 

Getting established on the slopers just past the crux

 

Cresenta: The gang at the base of Cresenta just before a downpour

 

Cresenta: Traversing beneath the large overhang on Cresenta

 

Reachers of Habbit: Thin moves on "Reachers"

Stuck in Another Dimension: Squeezing out of the chimney at the start; I thought this was the crux of the route

 

Stuck in Another Dimension: At the top of the crack…just a couple more moves until the rest

North Cascades (map)
 

Beckey Route: Jim on the summit of Liberty Bell

 

Beckey Route: On the summit of Liberty Bell

Coleman Glacier: Stuart, Jim, and Tracy lookin' tough on Mt. Baker

 

Coleman Glacier: Sportin' the traditional garb near the summit of Mt. Baker (Copyright © Stuart Williams)

 

Coleman Glacier: Hiding in a crevasse near the summit of Mt. Baker (Copyright © Stuart Williams)

 

Fisher Chimneys: Examining the summit register on Shuksan

 

North Ridge: Ade and Jim Go Climbing

 

North Ridge: Jim leading the first pitch of the Great Gendarme or Mt. Stuart

Orient Bay (Canada) (map)
 

Eveil Des Sens: Jim just before the crux of Eveil Des Sens in early season; this was the first climb done in the Ice Palace area

 

Parallax: Starting out on Parallax with the monster free-hanging pillar looming above

 

Parallax: In heavy snow, Jim climbs the mixed rock and ice to get established below the pillar

 

Reflection Wall: Climbing the exceptionally wet and steep Reflection Wa;;

Ostrov (Czech Republic) (map)
 

Alter Weg: Topping out, reach for a hueco (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Alter Weg: Topping out past the route book (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

 

Alter Weg: Opening moves involve tunneling through the center of the tower

 

Alter Weg: Horizontal within the tunnel

 

Alter Weg: Emerging from the other side of the tunnel, now with great exposure but good pro

 

Alter Weg: Turning around, getting ready to start up the remainder of the route

 

Alter Weg: Route book and the various pieces of the container

Ouray (map)

Skylight: Leave the security of the cave on the third pitch; the ice is very unstable here

Unknown: Leading an unknown line between the bridges…looks easy, but it's 4R

 

Tangled Up in Blue: Topping out in the Uncompahgre Gorge

 

Tangled Up in Blue: Jim and Nikos at the bottom of the gorge, preparing to climb

Tangled Up in Blue: In the gorge, in a sea of ice (Copyright © Nikos Kopidakis)

 

Scoping out routes between the bridges (Copyright © Nikos Kopidakis)

 

Tangled Up in Blue: Rappelling into the base of the gorge to climb Tangled Up in Blue (Copyright © Nikos Kopidakis)

 

Tangled Up in Blue: Jim near the top of the climb (Copyright © Nikos Kopidakis)

Owens River Gorge (map)

Ambassadors of Funk: Making a clip before the crux (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Ambassadors of Funk: Powering through the crux (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Penetente Canyon (map)
 

Not My Cross To Bear: Continuous and technical stemming up corner near the Virgin Mary painting

Pinecliffe (map)
 

Crossing the river on return from the Secret Crag

Pitcairn (map)
 

Men With Guns: Jim leading low on the first pitch

 

Graham Crackers: Leading a beautiful NEI 4 first ascent

Pompey (map)
 

Jim, Lucie, and Jack sitting in the Mule

 

Clearing snow between the house and the garage on a typical snow year

 

Dressed as a spicy, smoked snack for Halloween

 

Preparing for yet another trip

 

Bustin' a move on the foundation

 

Granite facing on the foundation

 

Extra deep foundation

 

Everybody standing around during the house raising

 

Standing on the frame on the day of the raising

 

Chipping brush to prepare the house site

 

More site clearing activity

 

Work progresses; Brian takes a rest

Questa Dome (map)

Question of Balance: Rapping off after getting spanked…too wet, too cold, too hard (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

RMNP (map)
 

Arrowplane: Self portrait at the summit

 

Jim and Lucie hanging out at Sky Pond

 

South Face of the Petit Grepon: Scoping out the 8th pitch just above the Pizza Pan Belay

South Face of the Petit Grepon: Climbing the 8th pitch, which is actually on the east side of the pinnacle

 

Lucie and Jim posed in front of Sky Pond; our bivy was just off the right edge of the photo on the far end of the pond

 

South Face of the Petit Grepon: Jim leading the crux pitch, looking down at Nikos at the belay ledge

 

Bivying at Sky Pond (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Standing at the base of the North Chimney after getting beaten down by the weather (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Rai Lei (Thailand) (map)
 

Beach combers (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

 

Jim with funny glasses (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

 

Hanging out on the beach (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

 

Martin and Jim on the boat (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

 

Best Route in Minnesota: If this was the only route in Minnesota, then it would be the best one; otherwise, it's a guano-infested, slippery arete (although the initial traverse, shown here, is quite nice)

 

Land of Smiles: Close-up of Jim on Land of Smiles (5.12) (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

 

Land of Smiles: Jim leading "Land of Smiles" on Happy Island (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Land of Smiles: Jim leading "Land of Smiles" on Happy Island (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

 

Land of Smiles: Jim leading "Land of Smiles" on Happy Island (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

 

Maui Thai: The first route we did in Thailand was a steep one -- Maui Thai

 

The King and I: Leading the first pitch of The King and I

The King and I: Jim, at the top of the second pitch of The King and I

 

Jim and Lucie (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

 

Swimming (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Red River Gorge (map)
 

The gang in New River Gorge

 

Twinkie: Jim, blowing out his arms on Twinkie

Red Rocks (map)
 

Jim sorting gear after a day climbing (Copyright © Jais Agertoft)

 

Prince of Darkness: Contemplating the opening moves on pitch 6

 

High Wire: My first climb at Red Rocks, and a pumpy one too

 

High Wire: My first climb at Red Rocks

 

Trigger Happy: Beautiful rock at the end of the day

Rifle (map)

Cold Cuts: Starting up Cold Cuts (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Feline: Amazing climbing, no route finding here due to the chalk (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Feline: Strenuous pulling and an intricate sequence coming up (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Unknown: Suppose to be 5.9, but more like .11a (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Rehabilitator: Another "warm up" route, pretty much at our limit (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Rock Creek (map)

He She: Thin moves at the start of the route (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Salmon River Falls (map)
 

There Goes the Neighborhood

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Finishing the crux column, about to dry tool to the finish on rotten shale

 

The Elbow: Jim leading the first ascent of The Elbow

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Series 4: Climbing into the crux, the ice hangs free from the rock above

 

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Series 5: Close-up - high on Mate, Spawn, and Die

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Series 6: Placing bomber protection before moving into the free hanging columns

 

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Series 7: Clipping the fixed runner at the top of the ice; the runner is connected to a bolt, the first placed at Salmon River

 

Go Fly a Kype: At the top of the column, the route climbs into the overhanging root ball of a tree, then climbs the branches, and finally the rock to the rim of the Gorge

 

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Approaching the top column in fat conditions

 

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Approaching the top column in fat conditions

 

Salmon Runs: One of the easier lines in the Gorge, Salmon Runs climbs the right side of the Amphitheatre wall

Play It Again, Salmon: The first ascent of Play It Again, Salmon -- on the steep, free-standing pillar at the bottom of the route (Copyright © Keith Robison)

 

Play It Again, Salmon: Michelle belays while Jim places a screw (Copyright © Keith Robison)

 

Play It Again, Salmon: Steep ice in the Amphitheatre (Copyright © Keith Robison)

Play It Again, Salmon: The first ascent of Play It Again, Salmon -- overview of the entire route (Copyright © Keith Robison)

 

Play It Again, Salmon: Nearing the top of the ice (Copyright © Keith Robison)

 

Play It Again, Salmon: Having reached the top of the ice (and the bolt), the route traverses right (Copyright © Keith Robison)

 

Play It Again, Salmon: In the midst of the rock section; the crux roof is just below (Copyright © Keith Robison)

 

Play It Again, Salmon: Attempting to de-pump (Copyright © Keith Robison)

 

Preparing to climb in the Amphitheatre (Copyright © Keith Robison)

 

Salmonella: Thankfully reaching the rest at the top of the free-standing column

 

Salmon Runs: Early season ice on a -10F day in the Amphitheatre (Copyright © Shahab Farzanegan)

 

Filet It Again: On the first ascent of Filet it Again; the roof below is pumpy, but the ice crux is still to come

 

Lox and Locks: Jim leading the main falls, left side

 

Shale We Climb: Jim high up on Shale We Climb in thin conditions, second ascent

 

Shale We Climb: Jim pumping through the initial roof

Emergency Release: Jim leading an unnamed column on the wall left of the main falls

 

Lox and Locks: Pretty easy climbing, but the ice is unconsolidated and protection is sparse

 

Shale We Climb: Shale We Climb in WI4 conditions

 

Shale We Climb: Leading through the final column; this column rarely comes in

Emergency Release: The columns of ice along the canyon rim (right of the Main Falls) form into fat and challenging climbs late in the season

Shale We Climb: Pumping through the opening roof

 

Salmon Steak: Jim leading the main downstream flow

 

Salmon Steak: Jim leading the main downstream flow, center section

Sedona (map)

The Original Route: Sitting on top of The Mace, at the end of P4 (Copyright © Emilie Drinkwater)

The Original Route: Stemming up the complex assortment of towers on P4; crux is at the top of the pitch (Copyright © Emilie Drinkwater)

Seneca Rocks (map)
 

Pollux: High on the Pollux route

 

Pollux: Spring climbing before the leaves

 

High Test: Joe puzzles through the crux moves at the start of High Test

Pleasant Overhangs: Joe lookin' out; I can be seen in the reflection

Sept-Îles (Canada) (map)
 

Le Mulot: Topo showing the route and belays; picture taken from the river (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

 

Le Mulot: Topo showing the route and belays; picture taken from the side (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

 

Le Mulot: Will and Jim on Le Mulot (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

Shawangunks (map)
 

Cars That Eat People: Shows the entire sequence on Cars that Eat People

 

Cars That Eat People: Series 1: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

 

Cars That Eat People: Series 2: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

Cars That Eat People: Series 3: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

 

Cars That Eat People: Series 4: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

Cars That Eat People: Series 5: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

 

Cars That Eat People: Series 6: Just past the crux; placing the gold Camalot (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Lichen' The Lip: Jim climbing the hard-to-protect crack right of Resistance; this section of the route is 5.10b (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Lost City Crack: Just getting into the crux section of Lost City Crack

 

Void Where Inhibited: Barely pulling the layback crux at the Nears

 

Birdland: At the crux on Birdland (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 1: On the lower wall (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 2: Just clipped the fixed gear below the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 3: Moving left to the lip of the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 4: Grabbing the bomber hang jam with the knees locked below the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 5: Hanging from the good buckets at the lip of the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Swing Time: Series 6: A toe hook allows one to grab the horizontal further left (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 7: A bomber heel hook allows one to grab the side pull above the roof; a fall from this position would surely break the ankle, and the swing would slam one headfirst into the wall below (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 8: The crux involves pulling up on side-pulls and standing on the horizontals above the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Foops: Pulling through the lip of Foops

 

Foops: Working out the roof on Foops

 

No Exit: Close-up of friends in the initial crack of No Exit

 

No Exit: At the bottom of No Exit

Scare City: Messing up a tenuous clip on Scare City

 

Wipe Out: Tad pumping through the overhanging hand crack of Wipe Out

 

Foops: Pulling through a 5.9 crack on the first section of Foops

Foops: Jim following the first 5.9 section of Foops

 

Bonnie's Roof Direct: Checking out the crux roofs on Bonnie's Roof Direct

 

Pink Laurel: Hanging around on the roofs of Pink Laurel

 

Trad weenies in the 1980s

Directissima: Jim leading the second pitch of Directissima

 

April Showers: Will's completed the difficulties and tackles the 10b upper section

 

Interstice: Struggling on the low roof of Interstice on the Mac Wall

Matinee: Series 3: Jim moving past the crux on the first pitch of Matinee

 

CCK Direct: Climbing amongst severely overhanging rock on CCK Direct (Copyright © William Segal)

 

Directissima: Sequence showing climbing the crux overhanging wall of the second pitch of Directissima (Copyright © William Segal)

 

Directissima: Selecting gear to place into the horizontal crack at the crux (Copyright © William Segal)

 

Directissima: Clipping the rope (Copyright © William Segal)

 

Directissima: One more mantle and it's done (Copyright © William Segal)

Matinee: Series 1: Starting the difficult traverse moves beneath the roof

 

Matinee: Series 2: Doing the hand swap on the small hold on the underside of the roof

Matinee: Series 3: Snagging the bucket at the end of the traverse

Susie A: Bouldering up the start of Susie A (5.10+)

Sheep Mountain (map)

Babies On Fire: Making the crux face moves at the bottom of the route (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Hang Nail: Nice crack climbing in the sun (finally) (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Middle Cracks: More climbing in the rain. This route sucks - short, dirty, and awkward. (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Shelf Road (map)
 

Bacher Against The Wall and Kauk Her: Grabbing the jug after the tenuous opening moves

Bacher Against The Wall and Kauk Her: Close-up -- Grabbing the jug after the tenuous opening moves

 

Bacher Against The Wall and Kauk Her: Contortions on the upper section

 

Bacher Against The Wall and Kauk Her: Close-up -- Contortions on the upper section

Smith Rock (map)
 

Screaming Yellow Zonkers: Jim leading Zonkers

 

Zion: Leading the third pitch of Zion

Ten Gallon Buckets: Climbing giant huecos

Karate Crack: Jim jams his way up one of the few cracks at Smith

South Dakota Needles (map)

West Gruesome: With rain starting, Jim does a quick rap into the chimneys (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Tricouni Nail: Leading out of the corridor up the back side of the Tricouni Nail (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Tricouni Nail: Anchored to the top of the Tricouni Nail (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Tricouni Nail: Anchored to the top of the Tricouni Nail (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

South Platte (map)
 

Choeps: The route traverses the face, finally emerging on the arete at the skyline

 

Choeps: The crux of the route involves traversing on a super thin slab

 

The Standard: Moving up the great flakes of The Standard; two bolts protect the lower section

 

T.B. Buttress: Climbing the thin face on the third pitch

Spearfish Canyon (map)

Sundrops: Climbing in the snow (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Sundrops: Stemming on large buckets at the start of the route (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Squamish (Canada) (map)
 

Grand Wall: Jim on the Grand Wall

Syracuse (map)
 

Jim and Kristen (Copyright © Unknown)

 

Bouldering on Warner's Monument at the cemetery

Taquitz (map)
 

Traitor Horn: Jim leading past the crux of the Traitor Horn

Telluride (map)
 

Ames Ice Hose: Jim leading the fourth pitch of Ames Ice Hose

 

Jim and Simeon Hit Bridalveil Falls and Ames Ice Hose (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

 

Bridalveil Falls: Jim standing at the base of Bridalveil Falls

Bridalveil Falls: Jim starting the third pitch of Bridalveil Falls

 

Bridalveil Falls: Triumph after Bridalveil Falls

 

Bridalveil Falls: Close-up of ice screw

 

Bridalveil Falls: Jim on the crux column at the start of the second pitch of Bridalveil Falls

Ten Sleep Canyon (map)
 

Beer Bong: Stemming the funnel at the top of Beer Bong (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Beer Bong: Stemming the funnel at the top of Beer Bong (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Positive Identification: Wicked good climbing up this arete (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Positive Identification: Super cool climbing on pockets (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Warewolves in London: Pullin' down on pockets (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Warewolves in London: Pullin' down on pockets (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Wicked as an M-16: On the opening face, low on the route (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Tennessee Wall (map)
 

Digital Macabre: Moving through the roof on jugs; the crux is the thin barn-door-ish crack just above

 

Open Sesame: It's hard to believe that rock this overhanging is only 5.8

Tetons (map)
 

No Perches Necessary: Traversing to find the base of the route (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

No Perches Necessary: Starting up the first pitch; the route breaks the roof and follows an offwidth crack (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Hut (map)
 

Jim standing on the back porch before the floor was installed

 

Fireplace arch with firebrick in the back

 

Taking a rest after collecting chimney stones from the property

 

Jim and Jack load equipment onto the flatbed for transport to the Hut; this equipment was used to collect stones for the chimney from the property

 

The crew that did the initial gathering of stones for the chimney

 

Bob on the roof, preparing it for the roof panels

 

A large crew is required to lift the 10" stress skin panels onto the roof

 

Jim digs the trench for the phone cable on a hot, sweaty day

 

Jim measures the Hut site

 

Jim chips branches cleared from the view

 

Crane at the site before the raising

 

Jim holds the temporary brace as the others lower the ridge pole into position

 

Preparing a large section of the timber frame for lifting by the crane

 

The crew prepares to receive the ridge pole

 

The timber frame, about 1/3 completed

 

The first large bents has just been moved into position

 

Jim and Tommy watch the frame raising

 

Jim holds up a brace -- one of the few jobs I could do

 

Jim does nothing, waiting orders

 

Jim connects the strapping to the crane

 

Jim spots the post as it's moved across the site

 

Jim positions a post onto a metal plate on the foundation

 

A post is positioned, making sure that the brace and horizontal member are fit at the same time

 

Jim prepares the straps for lifting a member

 

Jim helping out from the heights

 

Moving about the timber frame is easy for climbers

 

Jim tries to be helpful, but probably is getting in the way

 

Pounding a dowel into place to hold a joint together

 

The "climbers" help position the scaffolding

 

Four strong backs are required to move a rafter subsection

 

Continuing to move the rafter subsection, Doug comes to help

 

Continuing to move the rafter subsection, Doug helps, Jou and Doug watch

 

Steve and Jim move rafters around

 

A large subsection of rafters is lifted by crane and positioned around the chimney opening

 

Setting up the straps and comealong in order to pull together the two bents

 

The final bent now flies through the air

 

The final bent is lowered into position

 

Another view of the front ridge pole being installed

 

All hands on deck for the second ridge pole

 

Steve hands something up to Jim

 

Signaling the crane operator to lift using non-standard signals

Tinkers Falls (map)
 

A little early for ice (Copyright © Madeleine Wellner)

The Pencil: Leading a possible first ascent of a dangerous column at Tinkers

 

Trinity: Description of the new route "Trinity" at Tinker's Falls

 

Trinity: Series 1: Stepping up to the column

 

Trinity: Series 2: Getting the tools as high as possible without damaging the column

 

Trinity: Series 4: A heel hook allows one to move in balance

 

Trinity: Series 5: Using the mono points in the holes prepared in advance with an axe

 

Trinity: Series 6: Working the feet up, again without damaging the column; at this point, one can chimney against the column behind

Trinity: Series 7: Once up high enough, screws are placed

 

Trinity: Series 8: At the top of the pillar, a good stance allows one to place good protection

 

Trinity: Series 9: Moving leftwards through the hanging pillars

 

Trinity: Series 3: Carefully moving up the column

Tres Piedras (map)

Waiting out more rain (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Tsavo (Kenya) (map)
 

Jim and the Corporal examine the fresh hippo tracks near the camp site (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Covenant: Finally up at the col, we can start our climb up the large obvious spire

 

Covenant: On the summit (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Covenant: On the descent, we swam across the opening of this crevass, fully supported by cactus and other vegetation (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Thick jungle on the approach (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Displaying the skin of a cobra (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Covenant: Serious heat and not enough water (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

 

Covenant: Approaching the summit (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Tuolumne (map)
 

Phobos: Jim low down on Phobos

 

Phobos: John climbing the first pitch, Jim belaying from above (Copyright © Tad Welch)

Dixie Peach: At the belay on Dixie Peach, 5.9 (photo taken by Tad from South Crack) (Copyright © Tad Welch)

Utica (map)
 

Finishing up the Boilermaker (Copyright © Unknown)

Vail (map)
 

The Fang: The Fang and the Frigid Inseminator (Copyright © Nikos Kopidakis)

The Fang: Jim leading the crux, 5+ conditions

Vilcanota (Peru) (map)
 

East Face: High point on the ridge on Auzangate

 

East Face: Resting above the headwall

East Face: Jim, rapping off the headwall on Auzangate (Copyright © Martin Villarica)

 

East Face: Eating soup at high camp

 

East Face: On the hike up to high camp on Mariposa

 

Weighing the lamb for dinner

Wawa Gorge (Philippines) (map)
 

Redemption: Climbing through the crux slab using small finger pockets

Whitney Portal (map)

Eating lunch at The Beach (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Banana Hammock: Slippery friction; our first route at Whitney Portal (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Hiking to the crags around Whitney Portal involves some portion of the Mt. Whitney trail, which is where we're standing (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

No Country for Old Men: Belaying at the top of P5 (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Wild Iris (map)

Latex Cowboy: Single finger monos are common on routes here…even the easy ones (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Stacked Deck: Big jugs down low makde this one approachable (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Stacked Deck: Big jugs down low makde this one approachable (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

 

Red Ryder: Climbing a flake on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Wind Rivers (map)
 

Approach to Cirque of the Towers

Yangshuo (China) (map)
 

Gweilos In China (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Jim crossing the dam on the way back from Crag X (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Jim on mountain bike in Chinese countryside (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Jim on mountain bike in Chinese countryside (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Jim on mountain bike in Chinese countryside (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

On the way to the crag

 

Restaurant where we ate breakfast (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Little village on the way to Crag X (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Unknown: High up on an unnamed Skinner route (5.11d)

 

Unknown: Close-up of Jim high up on an unnamed Skinner route (5.11d)

 

Unknown: Jim climbing a hard Skinner route (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Unknown: Jim climbing a hard Skinner route (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Da Fe Ji: Jim pumping through the overhang (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Xin Jiang Black: Jim on Xin Jiang Black (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Xin Jiang Black: Jim high on Crag X

 

Unknown: Jim, lowering through the arch from the "easiest route at Moon Hill" (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Unknown: Climbing a route that's too hard

Jim standing beneath the arch on Moon Hill (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Happy New Year: At the second belay on Happy New Year

 

Happy New Year: Jim, worried, at the second belay (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Happy New Year: Jim, happy, at the second belay (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

 

Happy New Year: Rappelling from the second pitch of Happy Near Year (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Yosemite (map)

Wheat Thin: The crux of Wheat Thin -- getting into the crack

La Cosita: Leading the beautiful finger crack of La Cosita

 

Commitment: Jim on the final roof of Commitment

 

Marginal: Jim at a rappel station on Marginal

 

East Buttress: Jim and the Nose

 

East Buttress: Low down on the East Buttress

East Buttress: Leading the aid pitch on the East Buttress

 

South Face: The endless walk down from the top of North Dome, after climbing the South Face

Reed's Pinnacle Direct: Leading the awesome crack pitch, Reed's Pinnacle Direct

 

Royal Arches: Jim starts up the next pitch while Eric organizes gear (Copyright © Stuart Williams)