Adirondacks (map)

The Matrix buttress at Avalanche Lake
The Matrix

Topo of a few routes at Avalanche Lake
The Matrix

Traversing to the belay on the first pitch of 3D
3D

Early morning light over Avalanche Lake

Joe and Will sitting on the ledge below the fin

Will leading the leftmost crack on the fin (5.10+)
Unknown

Midway up one of the stellar chimney climbs, right of the rock route "3D"
Sufferin' Succatash

Lots of hard routes on this wall. The most prominent yellow ice is "A Usable Amount", put up by Will Mayo
A Usable Amount

Joe on Gate Keeper, just left of the 2nd hitch-up-matilda; we bailed here due to delaminated ice
Gate Keeper

Matrix wall from high on Scott Decapio's route. Visible are Gold Rush, Fools Gold, and The Matrix. Way to the right are the hangers climbed by Alex Lowe
The Matrix

My first try on leashless tools; I failed miserably, lowering off just after this point
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Bones gets established on the ice
Matrix Direct, The Other One

The Matrix with just enough ice to make it climbable
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Bones places a screw in the better ice
Matrix Direct, The Other One

View of the Matrix; the "other one" starts on the rock between the pines.
Matrix Direct, The Other One

At the top of the M7+ rock section
Matrix Direct, The Other One

High on the upper section
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Cranking through the initial overhanging crack
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Bones works out the moves on the initial overhanging crack
Matrix Direct, The Other One

The route Gate Keeper (the thin ribbon on the left) as seen from De Capio's route
Gate Keeper

Climbing a pillar on the east side of Avalanche Pass before one reaches the lake; the climb is broken into two parts -- the initial pillar to a ledge, then a rock overhang
Unknown

Bones climbs thin, poorly protected ice leading to a free-hanging ice column above
Unknown

Tad's map of Avalanche Lake showing the routes

Jim climbs the first ascent of Keymaster, a mixed route just right of Gatekeeper
Keymaster

Dad and Bruce Fair on the summit of Big Slide in the early 1970s

Kristy following John up My Favorite Martian in Cascade Pass
My Favorite Martian

Nikos starting on the third pitch
Pete's Farwell

Posing on the lake after completing Killer Whale

Simeon chimneying up Haggis and Cold Toast in the Beer Walls
Haggis and Cold Toast

George gears up to follow H14
H14

Series 1: Clipping the pin that Joe thankfully placed on the first ascent
H14

Series 2: Delicate moves are required to keep the little remaining ice intact
H14

Series 3: Near the end of the difficulties
H14

Approaching the final free-hanging pillar on Big Brother
Big Brother

Climbing the initial steep pillar on Buford; this pillar is shared between Bubba, Buford, and Ice Storm
Buford

Moving up the final overhanging smear of ice at the top of the route; the crux of the route is the traverse connecting the pillar of Bubba to the yellow drips on the right
Buford

Tommy leading the steep ice smear of Laceration
Laceration

Tommy leads the thin lower face that leads to the cave
Reunion

After getting gear in the rock cave, Tommy climbs the crux column
Reunion

Tommy starts the crux pitch of Artificial Gravity; the pillar on the right side is Power Play
Artificial Gravity

At the top, the ice overhangs; the route finishes by mounting the free-hanging pillar to the right
Artificial Gravity

The free-hanging pillar is the crux of this route, although the unprotected climbing above is engaging
Unknown

Series 1: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 2: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 3: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 4: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 5: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 6: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

The Power Play wall with a few routes labeled

The Big Brother wall in fat conditions; Big Brother is on the broken ice column on the left, Tommy is on Rhiannon, and Lilith is on the far right. On the orange wall just right of Tommy is the free-hanging column called Not Likely
Rhiannon

The cave is exited using an ice host that drips on the face to the left; the strip of ice on the right is Laceration
Reunion

Ade climbs the sketchy ice in the center section of Power Play
Power Play

A nice face climb at the Courthouse
Runaway Jury

Climbing the initial offwidth
Geronimo

Birches at the base of Geronimo -- water color

First free ascent of Life During Wartime, Echo Cliff
Life During Wartime

The now-famous Unit of Tad Welch

Nipple Top from Elk Lake

Staring out into space on the top of Sunrise Mountain near Elk Lake

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

One-arm hang, attempting to rest
The Fecalator

Jim on the first ascent of Lucky Stars (5.11R) at Good Luck Cliff
Lucky Stars

Mike Cross on the first ascent of a new route right of Cleveland, Good Luck Cliff
Columbus

Bill making the route safer after the first ascent
Lucky Stars

Will leading the beautiful 5.9 hand crack after a night of heavy partying
Mystery Achievement

Bill cleans the route with a wire brush on rappel
Lucky Stars

Topping out on the South Face route
Direct South Face

Simon and Lori at the belay on top of pitch 1; the lovely yellow lichen is characteristic of the south face
Direct South Face

The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid

The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid with the 3-pitch 5.9 route described
Direct South Face

Tom climbing around the chockstone on the direct start of Left of Passage
Left of Passage

Jim at Heart Lake in 1978

Bones approaches the crux roof/corner
There Be Dragons

Stemming through the crux; one more move and he's got a sinker hand jam
There Be Dragons

Dennis leads the crux of the route while Jim belays
Route of Opressive Power

Dennis finally nails the crux and struggles with the hand jams above
Route of Opressive Power

Dad resting on a bridge near Avalanche Lean-to

Jim hiking in the mid 1970s

Dizzle showing off the singlet

Dizzle starts a lap

Earl hangs out at camp

Posing with Lori

Following up GPD in the fall
Geriatric Profanity Disorder

Simon silhouetted against the sky on Apollo Tucker
Apollo Tucker

Tad, following the second pitch of Hooligans, Hurricane Crag
Hooligans

The gang at the Winter camp, late 70's

Chris, following Cheese and Crackers, King Wall
Cheese and Crackers

John near the second bolt of Chronic Fixation at the King Wall
Chronic Fixation

Just past the crux on the fragile upper columns
Cheese and Crackers

Chris warms up on one of the easier routes at the King Wall
Chronic Fixation

Jim belays Chris who is following the second pitch; the traverse is hard, but made easier using chimney moves with your back
Kingdom Come

Jim climbs the first pitch (5.11c) of Kingdom Come; the route continues left, then climbs the broken arching rock rightwards to a belay
Kingdom Come

Closeup of Jim on the first pitch
Kingdom Come

Leading the top section of Unexpected Pleasures on Knob Lock
Unexpected Pleasures

Ade leading on a cold day with brittle ice
Lock and Load

Martin leading the first ascent of Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish
Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish

Topping out on the crux in thin conditions
Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish

Topo of Lock Ness

Lock Ness

Topo of Lock Ness
Lock and Load

Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load
Lock and Load

Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load
Lock and Load

Jim leading the first ascent of The Best Ice Route in the Philippines
The Best Ice Route in the Philippines

Simeon leading the first ascent of Too Early on the lower wall of Lock Ness
Too Early

Jim leading in a snow storm on Camera Trouble on the upper wall of Lock Ness
Camera Trouble

Karen (of the Cliffhanger) preparing to climb at Lock Ness

Leading the offwidth 3rd pitch
Fear of Flying

High in the corner of the third pitch of Hard Times
Hard Times

Simeon at the top of the chimney pitch, belaying Simon
Hard Times

Crossing the river using a Tyrolean traverse

Kevin doing a split at the crux of Falconer
Falconer

Climbing the dramatic arete; this crux is moving onto the face (at the level of the gear in the photo), but the top is no giveaway
Spirit of Adventure

Jeremy climbs the thin face past the bolt at the start
Creation of the World

After placing gear in the corner, Jeremy prepares to layback
Creation of the World

Jeremy places a piece of gear into the expanding flake above the bolt; this gear sucks, and he later removed it
Creation of the World

After reaching a good hold for the left foot, Jeremy scopes the shallow corner for better protection
Creation of the World

At the end of the traverse on the 2nd pitch (5.11a), finally able to place some better gear
Creation of the World

Getting established in the hand crack at the end of the traverse on the second pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

The crack turns to wide fists before becoming off-width just above (2nd pitch)
Creation of the World

Approaching the hanging cedar on the 2nd pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

Joe belays while Jim eats a granola bar
Creation of the World

Lucie and Jim on the Summit of Giant after climbing Eagle Slab
Eagle Slab

Pushing it, after 20 hours

On the final lap of the 24-hour race

Start of the "24-Hours in the Adirondacks" mountain bike race

Waiting at the transition area

Approaching the Palisades across the ice of Lake Champlain from the Vermont side

George and Joe scope out the route from Lake Champlain; the route is in especially fat conditions and is usually approached from the top via rappel
Drop, Swim, or Die

Climbing the crux column low on the route
Drop, Swim, or Die

The second crux climbs the ice above the climber through the constriction in the rock
Drop, Swim, or Die

The leftmost route at The Palisades; the ice doesn't reach the bottom, thus the first ascent traversed in from the left; Will Mayo climbed a direct start on rock reaching the free-hanging pillars on the right side
Lake Champlain Monster

Jeremy checks out the ice with the "Monster" in the background
Lake Champlain Monster

Jeremy scopes out the line from the lake; the first ascent of this route occurred earlier this same day
For The Birds

Jeremy climbs the initial ice bulge, using nuts on the right for protection
For The Birds

The crux of the first pitch is a thin ice column protected with rock gear on the sides
For The Birds

With the gear in place, the ice column can be safely climbed
For The Birds

Just above the belay, the climbing is secure, but the ice is melted out and sketchy
For The Birds

George Adams does the third ascent in one long pitch while Jim and Joe watch
For The Birds

Tom leading the first ascent at Pharaoh Mt.
Here Come the Pigs

Tom posing at the base of his new route

Tres Amigos in the road at Poko

John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight
Freedom Flight

John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight
Freedom Flight

Jim low down on Goats Foot, Poko
Goats Foot

Close-up of Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko
Goats Foot

Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko
Goats Foot

Chris McElheney and Joe Szot attempting a line left of Goat's Foot
Goats Foot Left

Jim high in the Hidden Pique corner, Poko
Hidden Pique

Thin steep ice on Bushido, Poko
Bushido

Joe leading the final column on Midlife Crisis during the second ground-up ascent
Midlife Crisis

Will Mayo leading the Poko Waterfall in lean conditions
Waterfall

Positive Thinking, as seen from the road in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Jim starting the first pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko
Positive Thinking

Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch
Positive Thinking

Close-up of Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch
Positive Thinking

Simon leading the second pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko
Positive Thinking

Simeon leading on the upper tier of Poko
Run for your Life

John at the base of the Poko Waterfall
Bushido

Joe with refreshments at the base of Cirrhosis

Making the traverse on the first pitch of Son of Slime
Son of Slime

Close-up of Jim making the traverse on Son of Slime
Son of Slime

Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Dave Furman soloing the lower section of PT in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions
Midlife Crisis

Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions
Midlife Crisis

Leading the top crux column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions
Midlife Crisis

Leading the third pitch of PT in thin conditions
Positive Thinking

Positive thinking from the road; fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Simeon leading the second pitch
Positive Thinking

Stingray, shown using the first pitch of PT
Stingray

Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead
Waterfall

Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead
Waterfall

Legends contemplate the remaining work on the new routes near Pilgrim's Progress

Lori with her bandage

Legends at the base of Poko

Lori taped and ready to go

Jim at the start of the second pitch (yes, those are bolts next to the crack; what you can't see is that the crack is really the left edge of an enormous arrowhead-shaped detached block)
Pilgrim's Progress

Dennis halfway through the overhangs on the last pitch
Ancient of Days

Getting ready to pull through the exit moves on the last pitch
Ancient of Days

Just below the notch that breaks through the overhangs on the last pitch
Ancient of Days

Pulling through the final overhangs
Ancient of Days

About to pull through the final overhangs
Ancient of Days

The death of my Nikon 28TI
Casual Observer

Straining to pull the final layback move on Morning Star
Morning Star

The final pitch of Morning Star climbs a steep face to a layback finish around a bulge
Morning Star

Cleaning a nut on the second pitch
Morning Star

Bones works his way out the roof on the second pitch
Thunderhead

Bones climbs through the crux on the second pitch; this picture was taken just prior to falling
Thunderhead

Quitting early to help polish off one very large beer

At the top of the off-width section on the first pitch
Fastest Gun

Jeremy follows the first pitch (5.10a) of Pilgrim's Progress
Pilgrim's Progress

Joe places protection in a small cave before moving out onto crappy unconsolidated ice
Moonshine

A few tenuous moves get around the cave
Moonshine

Joe climbs the steeper ice; the crux is just above
Moonshine

Michelle casually follows Moonshine
Moonshine

A climber on the first pitch of Positive Thinking in super fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Dark Lord in melt-out conditions at Poko's upper tier
Dark Lord

Will Mayo leading the start of P1, "Hold the Mayo" (WI5+ M6)
Hold the Mayo

Will resting on "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Will higher in the corner on "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Will finally reaches the ice dagger on "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Jim leading pitch 2 of "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Joe Szot solo-aid climbing a route left of Hold the Mayo, Poko Upper Tier
Fear of Frogs

Tom seconding the corner left of Fear of Gravity
Mechanical Hydraulic Control

Tom getting a rest after squeezing through the crux on Your Anus
Your Anus

Setting pro high before climbing the crux; The Jackal overhangs gently for most of its length
The Jackal

With higher gear, Joe moves into the crux once again
The Jackal

Laybacking through the crux
The Jackal

Joe resting before the crux moves on the Jackal
The Jackal

The opening moves of Dark Lord clims ice under a roof, up into a corner, then onto a free-hanging pillar
Dark Lord

Starting up the steep middle section of the route
Dark Lord

The crux of the route climbs melted ice on black rock. The ice in the corner is shaded and therefore more solid than the ice on the face.
Dark Lord

Jeremy leading the huge roof; after this roof, there's a perfect finger crack that leads one into the overhanging rock left-of-center in the photo
Fear of a Flat Planet

Just before the meat of the climbing on Double Diamond
Double Diamond

Sinking the tips into the this layback crack
Double Diamond

Jeremy clips into gear in the thin crack
Double Diamond

Taking a rest on the left
Double Diamond

Climbing through the crux, Jeremy places more gear
Double Diamond

Grabbing the bucket past the crux
Double Diamond

Final moves to the anchor
Double Diamond

Tom and Nona having dessert in the kitchen after a day of ice climbing

Series 1: Dennis climbs the initial intimidating wall
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Series 2: Starting into the crux finger crack
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Series 3: Struggling with the crux of the route
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Full sequence of Dennis climbing Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Don climbs the lower crux section of the route
Romano's Route

Lucie painting at the Spider's Web

Will traversing into the base of the Eternity crack; we bailed here due to wetness
Eternity

Belaying at the base of the Web
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Colin reaches for gear after the difficult traverse
Drop, Fly, or Die

Colin climbs the steep crack of Drop, Fly, or Die, belayed by Joe Szot
Drop, Fly, or Die

About midway up the diagonal crack
It's Only Entertainment

Placing gear at midpoint on the diagonal crack
It's Only Entertainment

At the end of the diagonal crack; a couple of pieces here protect the crux left traverse
It's Only Entertainment

Halfway across the crux traverse
It's Only Entertainment

Awkard jams at the start of Ku Klux Ken
Ku Klux Ken

Chris powers through a couple strnuous moves
Ku Klux Ken

Pretty cool pinch hold
Ku Klux Ken

Laybacks near the top
Ku Klux Ken

A long reach; still not there yet
Ku Klux Ken

On the traverse to the final ice smear
The Apology

Reaching the final ice smear after 80' of dry tooling
The Apology

The final moves up the ice after the traverse
The Apology

Just off the ground, Chris searches for his first placement
Unknown

Joe belays Chris as he attempts a new line
Unknown

Chris places the purple Camalot, the first piece of protection
Unknown

Scanning the rock for a possible line; after this point, Chris aborted the attempt
Unknown

Joe climbs the initial section of ice that leads to an overhanging crack; David sets up in the background to shoot The Apology
Where's Karen

Jim and John on the way to Cragsmere

Lucie in the canoe near Cragsmere on Upper Chateaugay Lake

Kristy leading on the Diagonal on Wallface
Diagonal

Chris and Simon on the top of the ramp on the Diagonal, Wallface
Diagonal

Looking down from the roof pitch of Mental Blocks at Stuart Williams, Roger Albert, and Jim Lawyer
Mental Blocks

Jim leading the third pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface
Mental Blocks

Napping on Lunch Ledge, three pitches from the top
Free Ride

Moving into the first crux of the route on the first pitch; unfortunately, the business is right at the start of the route
Free Ride

At the belay on the Shield; these two pitches are some of the best face climbing in the northeast
Free Ride

Dennis leads pitch 4, the first Shield pitch
Free Ride

At the start of pitch 8, the "Endurance Corner"; the climbing here is very sustained, and the rock is a bit grainy
Free Ride

Resting about halfway through pitch 8
Free Ride

At the top of the cliff, the route traverses below a giant roof; a couple of hard [Houdini] moves, combined with awesome exposure, make this pitch a "must do"
Free Ride

Wallface, taken in the early morning from the viewpoint in Indian Pass

Close-up of the route Free Ride on Wallface
Free Ride

The route Free Ride on Wallface
Free Ride

Jim leading the second pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface
Mental Blocks

Joe follows the steep initial pitch of Master Craft (led by Dennis unseen above)
Master Craft

Lucie painting at the Washbowl Cliff, below the route Flashdance

Unknown climber high on Wind Jammer, a perfect splitter crack
Wind Jammer

Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier
Polar Soldier

Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier
Polar Soldier

Joe gets established after the traverse and prepares to climb the overhanging ice above
Yellow Pillars

Climbing into the steeper ice of the crux
Yellow Pillars

Overview showing Bombcicle and Yellow Pillars
Yellow Pillars

Alimosa River Canyon (map)

Looking down after the difficulties
Unknown

Climbing the perfect splitter hand crack
Unknown

Posing after the difficult initial hand crack
Unknown

Parking in the boulder field in front of the crag

The "Upper Wall" of the Alimosa River Canyon

Making shadows at sunset

Tommy's truck parked next to a giant boulder

Gearing up for another crack climb

Following an awesome hand crack
Unknown

Appalachian Trail (map)

Tracy and Jim at the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail -- Springer Mountain

Tracy and Jim relaxing after a day of hiking; notice the paper towels, Sierra Club cups, and prototype Marmot bivy sacks

Posing for the camera somewhere in Georgia

Tracy and Pete crossing the Kennebec…naked

Jim and Tracy take a refreshing dip in Frye Brook

Relaxing in New Hampshire

Reprovisioning in Tennessee

Tracy at camp somewhere in Tennessee; by this time, we ditched the bivys in place of a prototype Early Winters single-wall Gortex tent

Tracy carrying a monster load in a Trailwise frame pack, somewhere in the deep south

Taking pictures in Vermont

lean-to somewhere in Vermont

Tired boy in Virginia

This is what happens with lots of exercise and insufficient calories

We hiked the Appalachian Trail when I was 15

Arapiles (Australia) (map)

View of Arapiles from a distance

Watch out for Kangaroos

A stumpy in the campground

Ade leading the first pitch of Resignation
Resignation

Bard Buttress in the early morning light

Bouldering in the early morning light

Kangaroo bouncing around beneath the Bard

Jim leading steep rock on Resignation
Resignation

Ade and Martin at the belay on Resignation
Resignation

Martin at a belay on Resignation
Resignation

Ade following the second pitch of Resignation
Resignation

Street life in Natimuk

Ade leading the first pitch of Didgeridoo
Didgeridoo

Organ Pipes in the early morning light

Leading the top pitch of Tanin
Tanin

Ade following the last pitch of Lamplighter
Lamplighter

Jim and Martin at the top of the Pharos after completing Lamplighter
Lamplighter

Ade rapping off the Pharos after completing Lamplighter
Lamplighter

Ade following the top pitch of Arachnus
Arachnus

Martin at the third belay of Arachnus
Arachnus

Jim at the crux of Chinese Algebra, one of the hardest routes we did at Arapiles
Chinese Algebra

Margin leading Voodoo
Voodoo

Arco (Italy) (map)

Lunch in the olive grove near the base of the routes

Hanging out at the cliffs near Nago

Riva Del Garda

Extensive limestone cliffs at Nago

Thin curved house in Nago

Narrow streets in Nago

Sport climbing on great limestone
Equinox

Avalanche Gulch (map)

Colin follows the first pitch, belayed from above by Tom, just before a major storm hit
The Fire Spire

Tommy and Colin gearing up at the base of the spire
The Fire Spire

Tom leading the first pitch of the spire
The Fire Spire

Bangkok (Thailand) (map)

People waiting for the bus in Bangkok

Batangas (Philippines) (map)

Martin and Lucie on the dive boat

Filipino children

Beartooth Mountains (map)

Tom hiking towards the Bear's Tooth
East Ridge

The Bear's Tooth, up close and personal after 9 miles of approach
East Ridge

Tom on the 4th class slabs just below the south face of the Bear's Tooth spire
East Ridge

Beaver Creek (map)

The Touareg in use -- early morning at the camp spot in Beaver Creek

The Eye of the Needle formation, just right of center

Belaying Tommy on P1, enjoying the first sun in days
Batteries Not Included

Rappelling through the "eye" of the needle at the top of Batteries Not Included
Batteries Not Included

Rappelling through the "eye" of the needle at the top of Batteries Not Included
Batteries Not Included

Gearing up at the base of the route
Batteries Not Included

Fording the stream to get to the Eye of the Needle formation; very cold

Tom leading P1, slightly off route. The "eye" after which the formation is named is visible above him.
Batteries Not Included

Colin and Tommy at the belay in front of the "eye"
Batteries Not Included

Colin follows P1 of Batteries Not Included; crisp limestone
Batteries Not Included

Colin follows P1 of Batteries Not Included; crisp limestone
Batteries Not Included

Colin rappels through the "eye"
Batteries Not Included

The Eye of the Needle formation

Ben Nevis (Scotland) (map)

The Ben as seen from the CIC hut

Climbers gearing up at the CIC hut; Jim is the tall one in the orange top

On the approach to the CIC hut

The Ben, as seen from about half way on the approach. Too bad you can't drive up this far.

The Ben as seeon from the approach
 

Gear explosion in our tiny room above a pub in Fort William

Pretty river on the Ben

Lots of routes here - the Buachaille Etive Mor

Lots of routes here - the Buachaille Etive Mor

Descending the Ben toward the Red Burn area
 

Eric in a mess of ropes after topping out
Point Five Gully

Standing on the summit plateau after topping out
Point Five Gully

A view of Point Five Gully on the approach. The route follows the obvious deep gully on the left.
Point Five Gully

Jim on the steep snow fields on the approach to the base of the route. Our ascent was the first for the year, so we were breaking trail.
Point Five Gully

Leading the first pitch, which was a friable crust over rock
Point Five Gully

Unknown Italian climbers attempting to pass
Point Five Gully

Self portrait of Eric, cold and unhappy, but loving life
Point Five Gully

The final belay before topping out
Point Five Gully

Breaking through the cornice onto the flat summit plateau
Point Five Gully

White out on the summit; Jim is the tall person on the right
Point Five Gully

Eric standing next to the emergency shelter
Point Five Gully

Descending off the summit through intermetent white out
 

Descending from the col back into the valley

Descending from the col back into the valley

Descending from the col back into the valley

View of the Ben while descending from the summit

View of the Ben while descending from the summit

Approaching the CIC hut after the descent; things starting to clear up

A view of the mountains on the drive up from Glasgow

Black Canyon (map)

The view downstream from North Chasm View

Looking upstream from Russian Arete, near the bottom
Russian Arete

Looking upstream from Russian Arete, near the bottom
Russian Arete

Looking upstream from Russian Arete, near the top of the route
Russian Arete

Chris at the bottom of the route
Russian Arete

Blacktail Butte (map)

Avoiding the snow in the high country, we retreated to Blacktail Butte and climbed a couple routes
Inconceivable

Steep, polished limestone at Blacktail Butte
Inconceivable

Blue Cloud Spires (map)

Rocks littering the field near our camp site
 

Our camp spot next to large boulders. Too bad there's ticks.

Cows graze nearby our camp site

Scoping out the topouts of the routes on Elk Rock

Rock hoping around the top of Elk Rock
 

Colin on top of large boulder

Awesome views off the back side of Elk Rock

Tommy climbs the excellent corner crack on the Jedi Wall
Book of Payne

Good, well protected climbing at the "top rope area"; at least it's out of the wind.
Unknown

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Big buckets on steep rock, but piggin' cold
Rat King

Big buckets on steep rock, but piggin' cold
Rat King

Boracay (Philippines) (map)

Sitting in a tree above the ocean after emerging from Crystal Cave

Lucie being blown by the wind at sunset (she's actually doing a handspring)

Martin and Eric are comfortable with their naked-ness

Sunset at Puka Beach; for some reason, this beach seems always empty

Pretty sailboat and men repainting a boat hull at low tide

Boulder Canyon (map)

Fanni belays Adrian on some route; Adrian is about to make the crux moves
Unknown

British Virgin Islands (Caribbean) (map)

Lucie and Jim on the boat somewhere in the Caribbean

Murray in his element, sailing in the British Virgin Islands

Murray and Kyoko on the boat

Castle Valley (map)

A labeled view of the Rectory and other towers from Castleton Tower

Casey climbs the sustained big-hands crack on the first pitch; the route climbs through the roof above, then underclings right on slippery calcite
North Face

Looking up from the second belay, Casey climbs the first off-width section on the third pitch
North Face

A view of the north face of Castleton Tower; the North Chimney climbs the depression on the sunny side of the tower

View of the Rectory as seen from Castleton Tower

Closeup view of the Rectory as seen from Castleton Tower

Jim and Casey pose at the top of Castleton Tower after climbing the North Face
North Face

A view of the north face of Castleton Tower

Castleton Tower, the Rectory, The Nuns, and The Priest as seen from the parking area

A topo of the North Face of Castleton Tower
North Face

Looking down from the crux of the second pitch at Casey who is belaying below
North Face

Colin prepares to descend after bailing on Jah Man due to high winds

Cathedral Ledge (map)

Popping veins
Diedre

Reaching for the upper crack in Dresden; the climb ascents Nutcracker for a bit, then moves leftwards into the crux Dresden crack
Dresden

Catskills (map)

The only easy route in the Kitchen
Coal Kill Falls

Boney hanging out in the Kitchen

Bones dances up the wet and drippy Mephisto Waltz
Mephisto Waltz

Joe climbs steep ice on "The Window"
The Window

Climbing the upper ice above the window; the route "The Advocate" is the yellow column to his left
The Window

At the start of the route in brilliant sunshine
Gomorrah

High in the corner; you can see the bolts protecting the route (!?!?)
Gomorrah

Some routes in the Hell Hole

Central Cordillera (Philippines) (map)

View of fish stand, laundry, and woman with child, taken from the top of the jeepney as we passed through the town of Banaue on our way to Batad

View of a sea of tricycles taken from the top of the jeepney as we passed through the town of Banaue on our way to Batad

Have scotch will travel -- this is the jeepney we hired to travel from Banaue to Sagada

Driver that took us to Sagada

Rice terraces between Banga-an and Tanulong

The jeepney on the way to Batad became stuck, so we all grabbed our stuff and continued on foot

Rice terraces, traditional houses, and a carabao in the town of Batad

Lucie in front of a traditional Ifugao house in the town of Batad

Rice terraces and some traditional huts in Batad; we passed this on our way to Tapplya Waterfall

Sitting at Simon's, looking out over the rugged Batad valley and its rice terraces

View of the rugged Batad valley and its rice terraces

Emiliano working on a bulul carving

Exploring the rice terraces near town

To prepare the rice patty, a woman pulls weeks, then pushes them deep into the mud to rot

Clear water pounds over the waterfall; the ferns on the rock walls of the amphitheatre undulated from the wind created by the falling water

Black Bishop

Black Bishop

Black King

Black King

Black Kinght

Black Kinght

Black Pawn

Black Pawn

Black Queen

Black Queen

Black Rook

Chess set

Chess set

Chess set

White Bishop

White Bishop

White King

White King

White Knight

White Knight

White Pawn

White Pawn

White Queen

White Queen

White Rook

Chess set

Street stall selling chickens and other raw meats

A group of people decide to butcher their carabao using one lane of the road

The entrance to Lumiang Cave, stuffed with over 100 coffins, some of which are more than 500 years old

We regretted not bringing our rock gear to Sagada, as there is plenty of interesting limestone towers to climb, like this one in Echo Valley
Unknown

View of coffins hanging on a cliff face in Echo Valley

View of coffins hanging on a cliff face in Echo Valley

Unhappy carabao

Lucie plants rice with Gloria, a native of Tanulong

A man and his grandson take a break from working in the rice terraces

A man turns up the soil in a rice patty using a carabao

Cerru Del Canjorro (Spain) (map)

Hiking through olive groves to the crag

Jen climbs a warmup route at a hidden crag near Yaén
Cordura Dura

Jen climbs a sandbag route in the late afternoon light; there's no way this route is 6b
La Ley Del Deseo

Chamonix (France) (map)

The private climbing gym at the alpine school; an awesome place to spend a snowy afternoon

Mike and Laurv in Servoz where we stayed

Crappy photo of Mt. Blanc, the only view of the mountain we had during our 2-week trip

On our last day, the sky cleared enough for us to see the surrounding peaks
 

The alpinism school in Chamonix

The headquarters for all that is alpine

Charlevoix-Est (Canada) (map)

View of the route on the approach
La Pomme D'or

Will simul-climbing the first two pitches
La Pomme D'or

Will leading the 4th pitch
La Pomme D'or

Looking up at the 4th pitch with a cool mixed chimney on the left
La Pomme D'or

Will following the crux 5th pitch
La Pomme D'or

Will leading the 6th pitch
La Pomme D'or

Roland's sled from hell
La Pomme D'or

Will leading the 7th pitch
La Pomme D'or

Chilliwack (Canada) (map)

Pulling up to the ledge at the end of the second pitch
South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire

Leading the cracks on the headwall on the seventh pitch
South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire

Approaching the talus basin on Mt. Rexford

Preparing to leave for Mt. Rexford early in the morning

On the summit of North Nesakwatch Spire
South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire

On the summit of Mt. Rexford, looking west
West Ridge, Mt. Rexford

Looking down at the Nesakwatch Spires from the summit of Mt. Rexford

Rexford mountain range with labels, taken from the bivy on the Northeast Buttress of Mt. Slesse

Simon at the bivy on Slesse
Northeast Buttress

Evening sun over the Illusion Peaks, Nesakwatch Spires, and Mt. Rexford
Northeast Buttress

Triumph on Slesse with Simon's glasses half eaten by rats
Northeast Buttress

Slesse panorama with labels; taken from the summit of Mt. Rexford

Chilliwack mountains

The summit of Mt. Slesse as seen from the east
Northeast Buttress

Chimborazo (Ecuador) (map)

Summit of Chimborazo, 6310m
Whymper's Route (South-West Ridge)

Lucie, modeling above 16,000 feet

City of Rocks (map)

Tommy shows his stuff at the start of Animal Cracker
Animal Cracker

Tommy approaches the offwidth section
Animal Cracker

Moving through the initial bulge on big jugs
Colossus

Chalking up at the initial bulge; this section is pretty easy because of the large holds…the crux is moving through the hueco near the top of the route
Colossus

Bev lowers from the anchors with colorful fall foliage in the background
Bumblie Takes a Tumblie

Climbing nice patina holds at the top of the route
New York Is Not The City

Crimpy changeover in order to make the clip
New York Is Not The City

Reach for the jug
New York Is Not The City

The start of the route is the mental crux, as one has to layback up the arete on small holds (protected by an RP), shooting for the obvious pocket, clip a bolt on the left, then make long reaches up the arete to better holds
Terror in Tiny Town

Jim grabs the better holds at the start of the route; the technical crux lies above
Terror in Tiny Town

Beverly, at breakfast, makes assignments for the day

Camp at the City

Lucie cooks yummy chicken stew at camp

Lucie has an art show at camp

Relaxing at camp talking about the upcoming '04 election

Tommy and Michelle drinking…how about a beer?

Tommy and Michelle show off their hair
The Pygmies Got Stoned

Contemplating the next move
The Pygmies Got Stoned

Laybacking and stemming up the side of the hueco allows one to reach a high jug
Quest For Fire

Michelle makes the weird crimpy layback with the palm dyno at the end of the second pitch
Morning Glory

Lucie paints the colorful foliage near Parking Lot Rock

Michelle and Beverly hike into the area behind Parking Lot Rock

Our first route at the City -- a casual face climb up a rib of rock
Delay of Game

Michelle does a split at the crux
Tow Away Zone

Tommy belays Jim on Sabbatical
Sabbatical

Looking out towards the Sisters from the top of Redtail on Rabbit Rock

The crux of the route is moving past the first bolt, shown here
Redtail

Getting established just past the crux after the first bolt
Redtail

Michelle reaches the top of Redtail
Redtail

Michelle clips a bolt
Looker

Crimpy holds on Looker
Looker

Michelle traverses 30' into the start of the route while John and Andrew spot
I can't Believe It

South Creek as seen from Flaming Rock; Bumblie Rock is just right of center

South Creek as seen from Flaming Rock; Bumblie Rock is right of center and Slabbage Patch is left of center

Tommy and Michelle climbing in the cold morning wind
Intruding Dike

Cody (map)

From the end of Hunter Creek Road, we approached Mean Green and other routes in the Majo Ranch area

Jim climbs the first pitch (WI4) of Mean Green, belayed by Tommy; the second pitch can be seen above
Mean Green

Joe climbs the third pitch of Mean Green (WI4); the pitches here are separated by several hundred meters of easy scrambling up the drainage
Mean Green

Joe climbs the crux pitch of Mean Green (WI5), belayed by Tommy
Mean Green

The route Mean Green as seen from the approach gully
Mean Green

Cogne (Italy) (map)

We climbed this route despite that it was falling apart around us

The busy ski town of Cormeyeur; very pretty, but very busy

Coire An Lochain (Scotland) (map)

A helicopter lowers a person to the ridge during training exercises

Danger sign at the top of the cliff

Eric traversing left to the belay at the top of P1
Jet Stream

Columbus (map)

Tom showing off his new hand plane

Tommy and Joe wait for their laundry

The "Mother Ship" in the early morning light

Returning to the "Mother Ship" after a day climbing

Chowing down in the "Mother Ship"

Tommy's fine craftmanship on display in the center of his 18-sided house

The "Mother Ship" is a cordwood masonery house made using wood cut from forest service land in East Rosebud Canyon

Tommy happy out on the range
 

Tommy's new project -- a 10x20 barn

Entry way sign welcoming Nona, his wife

Colin trying to look all buff and stuff
 

Inside of the Mother Ship

Another view inside the Mother Ship
 

Awesome Montana sky

Overview of Tommy's compound

Cordillera Real (Bolivia) (map)

Driver's helper; this young boy taught us how to chew cocoa leaves

High camp
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Suiting up for the glacier to high camp
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Llamas carrying gear to base camp at Laguna Negra
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Illampu (6368m) in Bolivia, taken from high on the ridge on Ancohuma
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Arrival in Cocoyo
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Establishing base camp
Southwest Face, Normal Route

View of mountains from base camp
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Ancohuma (6427m) From Camp I. The climbing route we attempted ascends the ice fall to the rght of the picture onto the glacial plateau above.
Southwest Face, Normal Route

A view of Ancohuma (6427m) from high camp at 5600m. The climbing route we attempted crosses the glacial cirque towards the peak, then traverses right to a snowy ramp that is climbed to a plateau. From the plateau, the route turns left traversing to the base of a steep face, which is ascended up to the summit ridge, which is followed to the top.
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Enjoying the sunset at Camp I
Southwest Face, Normal Route

One of the boys we hired to drive the llamas
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Llamas carry gear to/from base camp
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Martin in front of his tent at Camp II
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Simon wanders up the glacier between Camp I and II
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Camp II at sunset; everyone has already gone to bed in preparation for the climb
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Chris showing a map to some kids

Unloading the truck in Cocoyo

Eric on the approach to base camp

Three girls in Cocoyo

Expedition photo taken by a local in the town of Cocoyo (taken during the trek back from base camp to Sorata)

A family peels a field of potatos

Street life in La Paz

A disorganized web of wires above the street

Women in traditional dress on the streets of La Paz

Lucie doing some cleaning at base camp

Looking east over an alpine lake at an impressive granite face

Travel to Sorata

Costa Blanca (Spain) (map)

Calpe and the Peñon, home to many long routes at Costa Blanca

Ian roping up at the base of the route
Diedro Magicos

Ian starting out the fourth pitch
Diedro Magicos

The Puig Campana from Finestrat

The Puig Campana from Finestrat

Showing the route of Diedro Magicos
Diedro Magicos

Ben following yet another bolted 6a at Sector Concepción
Y tú ¿Quién eres?

Looking east from the summit of the Divinio, showing the lower Sella valley and the Mediterranean Sea beyond

The hermitage at the top of the hill above the village of Sella

Ian posing on another 6a+
El Gran Coscorrón

Clipping the first bolt; the route continues out the mouth of the cave at 6c
Ojo de Odra

Looking down onto the village of Sella

The street near our house; you can see the cliffs of Sella (Badall de Tafarmaig, Galera de Tafarmach, El Collado, and Pared de Rosalía)

Looking towards the cliffs from the main square; Bar Paco is closed

The village of Sella with the Puig Campana in the background

View of the climbing areas of Sella from the village of Sella (the graveyard is on the hill on the right)

The cliffs of Sella

The village of Sella with the Puig Campana in the background

More cliffs of Sella (Badall de Tafarmaig, Galera de Tafarmach, El Collado, and Pared de Rosalía)

Jim and John hiking near Sella

Sea cliffs along the Sierra de Toix

Ian and Lucie at the top of the cliff after finishing the route
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Fred traversing on the first pitch
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Ian starting out from the belay on the third pitch
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Ben completing the traverse on the third pitch
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Ian and Ben at the belay at the end of the third pitch
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Ian starting the fifth pitch; too hot for shoes
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Ben and Fred enjoying the sun at the top of the fourth pitch
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

The whole crew, after completing the route
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Getting read to rap down to the base of the routes by the sea; notice the collection of Wild Country #3 rocks used for the ENP casings
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Cotopaxi (Ecuador) (map)

Leaving the drop-off point for the hike to the Whymper Refugio
Normal Route

Crawford Notch (map)

High on Dracula in thin conditions
Dracula

Cuenca (Spain) (map)

Houses built over the cliff in the old section of Cuenca

View of the cliffs of Cuenca

Yet another limestone face climb in Cuenca
Alfarzar-1

Climbing a beautiful orange corner system
Sudor y Sangre

Climbing a beautiful orange corner system
Sudor y Sangre

Lucie shows off her painting

Jen pulls the high crux through the bulge near the top of the route
Monte De Venus

Picturesque climbing near the start of the route
Monte De Venus

Cuzco (Peru) (map)

Arriving at the airport in Cuzco

Entering a local restaurant in Cuzco

Simeon and Lucie on the train to Aguas Calientes

Approaching Abra de Warmiwañusqa (Dead Woman Pass) at 4200m, a porter struggles under an enormous load of gear that tourists refuse to carry; this is the highest point on the Inca Trail

The gang poses on the Inca Trail

Machu Picchu in the early morning

Lucie hiking on the Inca Trail

Group on day 3 of the Inca Trail

Precise stonework at Machu Picchu

Lucie in front of some fancy Inca stonework

The group poses in front of an Inca wall

Denali National Park (map)

Expedition boys before leaving for Talkeetna

Denali from Foraker base camp

Sitting around base camp
Southeast Ridge

Arriving at base camp
Southeast Ridge

Fiddling with gear at base camp
Southeast Ridge

Setting up a belay on the Southeast Ridge
Southeast Ridge

Mark, low down on the ridge
Southeast Ridge

Mt. Foraker as seen from the Kahiltna glacier

Foraker as seen from the Kahiltna glacier

Shuttle that takes climbers between Anchorage and Talkeetna

In the airplane waiting for takeoff

Devil's Tower (map)

Reading the register on the summit.

Awesome Devil's Tower
 

Awesome Devil's Tower

Awesome Devil's Tower

Getting up early to hit the Tower

Cool camp setup, perfect because it rained every day for 3 weeks

Leaving the P1 belay and starting up P2
Solar

Excellent corner jamming on P2
Solar

Finally, a break in the jamming
Solar

Reading the guidebook, scoping out routes

At the top of the first pitch
Tulgey Wood

Climbers on the famous P2 of El Matador. The woman following was barely able to make the stem.
El Matador

Climbers on the famous P2 of El Matador. The woman following was barely able to make the stem.
El Matador

Colin at the top of P1 of El Matador. We decided to bail here.

Dolomites (Italy) (map)

John steals pillow cases to carry his gear

John on a typical Dolomites ledge
South-West Corner, "Trenker"

John following a pitch low in the corner
South-West Corner, "Trenker"

Sassolungo towers from the height of the pass near the Sella towers

John on the South Face of the first Sella Tower
North-West Arete, "Kasnakoff"

Jim descending the Sella Towers

John descending in the Sella Towers

The streets of Trento

The streets of Trento

Close-up of John nearing the second belay on the South-West Arete of Delago Tower
South-West Arete "Delagokante"

John nearing the second belay on the South-West Arete of Delago Tower
South-West Arete "Delagokante"

John climbing on the arete
South-West Arete "Delagokante"

John scrambling near the Vajolet Towers

Dragoon Mountains (map)

The Hands formation in the late afternoon light

View of the Dragoons from the west, with views of Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Squaretop, and Rockfellow Group

View of the Dragoons from the west, with views of Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Squaretop, and Rockfellow Group

Labeled view of the Dragoons from the west, with views of Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Squaretop, and Rockfellow Group

Dennis leading the third pitch of Warpaint; this part is about 5.9
Warpaint

"Elsie the Cow" formation, named for obvious reasons

The second pitch (5.8) of Warpaint (the only easy pitch on the route)
Warpaint

Looking down at Jim (top of P2) and Eric (top of P3) from the middle of the fourth pitch
Warpaint

Jim leading from the belay on the fifth pitch of Warpaint; the crux of this pitch is just before the photo was taken
Warpaint

Jim and Dennis hanging out on the summit of Whale Dome after completing the ascent
Moby Dick

The Whale Dome with the route Moby Dick labeled
Moby Dick

Dennis leads the 5.8 cracks on the first pitch of Moby Dick
Moby Dick

Eric and Jim hanging out at the belay at the top of the fourth pitch
Moby Dick

Shadow puppets on the summit of Whale Dome
Moby Dick

Whale Dome, as seen from Westworld Dome

East Rosebud (map)

Topping out on The Ramp -- the top of the 5.9 variation on pitch 5
The Ramp

At the top of the first pitch of The Ramp
The Ramp

The first two pitches of the route -- each a rope-stretching 200 feet -- ascend this massive piece of ice
California Ice

The lower section of the route as seen from the descent gully
California Ice

The East Rosebud canyon; there's a beautiful 5.10 route up the prow just left of center starting from the tree ledge

The East Rosebud Lake as seen from "The Hump" on the East Rosebud - Cooke City Trail; just past this hump is the drainage for California Ice

Starting the first pitch (WI4) of California Ice
California Ice

The third pitch (WI3) goes to the right of the cave and up to easier ice
California Ice

Joe climbs easy ice in the drainage below California Ice; we climbed about 2000' of easy ice to get to the base of the route
California Ice

Around the final bend in the drainage we can finally see the main ice flow -- 400' of WI4 ice
California Ice

Joe looks glum on the descent
California Ice

Joe climbs the second pitch (WI4) in a snow squal
California Ice

Tommy and Joe take a rest at the base of Sand Dune Falls; unfortunately, the bottom portion of the route was missing -- she no go
Sand Dune Falls

Returning from a failed attempt at Sand Dune Falls

El Chorro (Spain) (map)

Climber pulls the roof at the end of the first pitch (6a)
Escalopendra Guajani

Jen climbs a difficult face with "flaky jugs"
Engendro Caneki

Lucie and Jen laugh it up at the base of the crag; Mike in the background

Lucie sketches at El Chorro

El Potrero Chico (Mexico) (map)

View of the cliffs from the camp site

John calls home

Mini Super El Toro

Lucie, Simon, and John cooking

Lucie and John planning an excursion in town

El Cielo Rey from high up on the Outrage Wall

Simon rapping off the second spire
Aguja Cielo Rey

John at the first belay of Aguja Cielo Rey
Aguja Cielo Rey

Simon leading high on Snot Girlz
Snott Girlz

Jim at the third belay of El Diablos Path
El Diablos Path

Elbsandstein (Germany) (map)

By the end of the trip, Rayko's tips were bleeding

Ring for protection and belays

A route book; every tower has one of these

An open route book

Standing in front of the second Bergsport Arnold store, this one in Bad Schandau

Trolly car ferries tourists from Bad Schandau up the valley to the trailheads

Twin towers; we climbed the tower on the left

Unknown climber peering down from the top of a neighboring tower

Climbers dot the various towers in the Bielatal region

Climbers dot the various towers in the Bielatal region

Giant rappel rings; the flat spot on the top is so that you can clip a caribiner to it

Bomber thread
Nordwestweg

A climber on a difficult route (you can just make out his red pants on the upper left side)

The amazing Frienstein; we climbed on the neighboring formation

At the belay after a terrifying lead, the scariest of the trip
Nordwand

Roping up for what turned out to be the scariest lead of the trip
Nordwand

Rayko attempts the second pitch, but is off route on a 5.10c
Nordwand

Folling the first pitch, which had cracks, but no gear (if ONLY I had a cam)
Nordwand

Approaching the belay at the end of the first pitch; notice the furry runner around the large flake (the furrier the better)
Südwand

Topping out on the second pitch
Goldsteigkante

Belaying from the top of another tower

The start of the route involved very pocketed rock with good pro
Goldsteigkante

Moving through the super featured rock on the first pitch
Goldsteigkante

Looking back at the second pitch, a traversing affair with many tied off flakes and threads
Südwand

Starting up the second pitch -- a bit of a run after the first bolt
Südwand

A jammed knot before the real difficulties; Rayko rappelled from this one
Wahnsinnsverschneidung

Following the first pitch, very pumpy here with poor gear
Goldsteigkante

Following the honeycomb section of the second pitch, just before the traverse
Südwand

Following the honeycomb section of the second pitch
Südwand

To get off one tower, we rappelled into a gap and climbed another tower which had the rappel line
Alter Web

Prepping for a hard lead
Direkter Südwestweg

Scoping out the route ahead, very steep here
Direkter Südwestweg

A climber on difficult route (he's in orange and yellow)

Cool honeycomb rock covered the entire second pitch

Cool honeycomb rock covered the entire second pitch

A long pitch of runout crack climbing, but with good plates on the face. The chimney topout was terrifying
Südwand

Following the chimney topout, very scary to lead
Südwand

Another honeycombed face protected with hourglasses
Knirpelwand Direkte

A good route photo; the long crack on the left tower is Südwand, and the black pocketed area is Knirpelwand Direkte

Our apartment in Hohnstein, just 100 yards from the town square…ideally located

The midieval town of Hohnstein

The main square of Hohnstein; Bernd Arnold's sports shop is on the right

Dinner in the basement of the town hall; pretty good food, but not as good as in Velden

Standing in front of the Bergsport Arnold store in Hohnstein

The castle and bridge for tourists

Leaning back on jugs near the top of the route
Türkischer Honig

Runout to the first bolt, then more reasonable and juggy
Türkischer Honig

The amazing Höllenhund wall; we climbed a route on the far right side where the rock is even more featured

High on the wall at a hanging belay
Talweg

Feeling stoked after leading the first pitch
Talweg

At the second belay…cold as hell
Talweg

Removing a thread on the third pitch
Talweg

On the third pitch
Talweg

On the third pitch
Talweg

The 4th and final pitch involved leaning across to the next tower, then climbing the face
Talweg

Traverse just before the topout
Talweg

Working on some pro -- a threaded runner
Talweg

Looking down from the first belay at the super featured rock and intricate protection
Talweg

Starting up the overhanging wall -- a real head game
Talweg

Looking up at the second pitch -- many tied off threads
Talweg

Roping up below the 300'-high overhanging wall with…you guessed it…knots
Talweg

Looking down at Rayko at the first belay
Talweg

Looking down at Rayko at the first belay
Talweg

Rayko is on top of the main wall, on an isolated island summit
Talweg

In a sea of towers
Talweg

Following the first pitch, removing a thread
Talweg

Super featured rock on the first pitch
Talweg

Following the second pitch
Talweg

Nice slung flake, but it feels like it might rip off
Talweg

Following the first pitch on yet another pigging cold day
Herkules Rippe

Approaching the belay
Herkules Rippe

Threaded hourglasses work better if you equalize the load by feeding the knot into the constriction
Herkules Rippe

Rayko at the first pitch belay
Herkules Rippe

Rayko far below at the P1 belay
Herkules Rippe

The river Elbe with many exposed bits of rock

More knot climbing
Direkte Südwestwand auch

We climbed on the smooth wall on the left, where everything was hard 5.10

Following the first pitch, leaning way back on a flake
Südhangel

Rayko laybacks around a flake at the top of the pitch
Südwestwand

Belaying at the top of the Lokomotive; notice the ring and "towel rack" bar to prevent the rope from creating deep grooves in the rock
Südwestverschneidung

Writing my entry in the route book
Südwestverschneidung

This crag is supposed to resemble a locomotive. It's actually a relatively thin grouping of towers on top of a high ridge

The Locomotive crag seen from the top of Honigstein

Rayko looking for his name in the route book

The initial moves, protected by a small jammed knot
Dampflok

Mess of towers as seen from the summit of the Locomotive

Tied-off flakes and hourglasses serve as the anchor at the top of the first pitch
Talweg

Making the crux moves at the start of the route -- an overhanging offwidth crack protected by jammed knots, the first knots I placed in Elbsandstein
Talweg

A small jammed knot on the second pitch
Talweg

Second pitch squeeze chimney
Talweg

Rappelling the backside of the tower down to the grass; the terrain is comfortably navigated with bare feet because of the sand

An overhanging handcrack; the crux was the slopey, sandy moves after the crack
Morgengebet

Farm country as seen from the top of Pabst

Farm country as seen from the top of Pabst

Approaching the crag from town; our first route in Elbsandstein was the crack on the right side of the third tower (from the left)

Looking over the town below the crag

Browsing the route book
Ostkante

Huge jugs at the top of the route
Ostkante

Belaying from a giant hole in the top of the tower
Ostkante

Leaving one tower and climbing the next one over, in search of a rappel line

More rappelling from rings; nice redundancy

Eldorado Canyon (map)

Lucie and "The Greeks" pose for the camera

Climbing the beautiful corner of Darkness
Darkness 'Til Dawn

The corner of Darkness 'Til Dawn; actually takes wide gear in the face on the right
Darkness 'Til Dawn

Climbing the overhanging hand crack at the start of The Grand Course
The Grand Course

Sequence of pictures showing climbing through the crux of Blind Faith
Blind Faith

Climbing though an awkward bulge below the crux crack
Blind Faith

Placing gear into the crux crack
Blind Faith

Jamming through the final steep crack
Blind Faith

The Bastille; climbers can be seen on Bastille Crack

Fisher Towers (map)

A view of Cottontail with the Titan looming behind

King Fisher as seen from the hiking trail

The Titan as seen from the hiking trail

View of Ancient Art; the Stolen Chimney (Corkscrew Summit) route ascends the funky-shaped corkscrew in the center of the photo

The Ancient Art formation with an approaching storm in the background

Ancient Art and it's various summits; the corkscrew summit (aka "Stolen Chimney") is the leftmost summit

The corkscrew summit as seen from the top of the belay on the other side of the "sidewalk"
Stolen Chimney

Colin sits at the sidewalk, as seen from the top of the corkscrew
Stolen Chimney

Following the pebbled face on the first pitch; the climbing is a little bouldery, and the protection is all drilled angle pitons
Stolen Chimney

Leading the corkscrew -- one of the wildest summits anywhere. The ropes are arched to the right due to strong winds
Stolen Chimney

The second pitch (5.8); looks like mud, but is actually pretty nice rock with decent protection every 8 to 10 feet
Stolen Chimney

Posing on the summit of the corkscrew
Stolen Chimney

Pitons on the "sidewalk" belay; the rock around the drilled pitons has eroded
Stolen Chimney

Two other summits of the Ancient Art formation with the King Fisher in the background as taken from the summit the corkscrew
Stolen Chimney

A topo showing the Stolen Chimney route on Ancient Art
Stolen Chimney

Franconia Notch (map)

Jim Lawyer on the Whitney-Gilman in 1986
Whitney-Gilman

Tracy Pierce on the Whitney-Gilman in 1986
Whitney-Gilman

The Black Dike in early season
Black Dike

Bones follows the last pitch of Moby Grape; this finish climbs corners left of the standard finish
Moby Grape

Jim, just after the rock traverse on the Black Dike
Black Dike

Pulling the monster roof on the 5th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Climbing the slab below the overlap on the 5th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Nabbing the jug in the roof on the 5th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Approaching the overlap on the 5th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Bones at the crux of the first pitch; from here, the route continues [climber's] left on an unprotected 5.8 face
Bennedictus Direct

Bones runs it out on the thin 5.9 traverse on the 4th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

At the end of the traverse on the 4th pitch, a couple of really hard moves (5.11c) take Bones to overlap. This pitch is a variation to the original route that avoids the 5.11d A3 section.
Bennedictus Direct

Jen and Brian get organized to film climbing on the third pitch of Bennedictus
Bennedictus Direct

Jen jugs the first pitch of Bennedictus to set up for filming the higher pitches
Bennedictus Direct

Jen filming the 3rd pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Jen at the 4th belay on Bennedictus
Bennedictus Direct

Closeup of a bolt on Cannon

Panning back, you can see the bolt is in a piece of talus, having fallen from somewhere on Cannon

At the belay at the start of the 4th pitch, scoping out the pitch ahead
Bennedictus Direct

Following the 4th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Taking a photo as Will leads the 4th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Frankenjura (Germany) (map)

The formation with Action Direct. The actual route climbs the underbelly of the rear buttress.

Super cool crag rising above a small village

Super cool crag rising above a small village

Super cool crag rising above a small village

Standard lowering hardware in the Frankenjura, which isn't the easiest thing to climb in moments of desperation

Kurt Albert started the whole red dot thing, which later became the "redpoint"

The small town of Hartenstein with several crags nearby

On the way out of town to the crag

An open but amazingly dark forest with a pretty good crag. Rayko runs it out to the first bolt.
Igor

Rayko gains big holds after a pumpy traverse. Notice the route book midway across the traverse.
Bergzigeunerweg

Small villiage of Lungsdorf, which is nothing more than a bend in the road. We did climb a pretty cool tower just above town.

Signing the route book at the top of the tower
Trebbla

Starting up the tower above Lungsdorf
Trebbla

In the rain, we lucked upon this severely overhanging amphitheater with several dry routes
Schwarzer Riss

A beautiful crack climb reminiscent of the Dolomites
Westriss

Hiding from the rain in a cave at the base of the Napoleon tower

This free-standing tower, to our surprise, was about 10" thick
Südwestwand

Rayko straddling the top of the tower
Südwestwand

Our first climbing stop in Frankenjura

Random climber seconding a pretty cool line
Luftige Wand

Pretty cool climbing down low, but an unprotected chimney up high
Büberriss

Lowering off a super steep climb at the end of the day
Sauwetter

Amazed by this formation, we vowed to return, only to discover that all the routes are hard

Our little apartment in Velden, a 5-minute walk from the main square

Best food in Bavaria, or so we thought

Standard dinnertime activities -- email, route research, and taking notes from the days outing

Buying strawberries and other vegies

Purchasing the daily supply of lunch meat

View from the top of the cliff; the approach follows the dirt road

It rained, so everybody headed for the overhanging roadside crag

Super steep roadside climbing, mostly Czech climbers

A difficult and long route with several cruxes. Too bad it's out of focus.
Corazon

Frenchman Coulee (map)

Ade running it out up easy ground on Strokin' the Chicken
Strokin' The Chicken

Ade clipping bolts on Jesus Saves
Jesus Saves

Fruita (map)

Fanni rides the lower section of Zippy Da Do Da

Descending a section of the classic Joe's Ridge

Another section of the classic Joe's Ridge

Nikos climbs from the road on the lower section of Zippy Da Do Da

Nikos climbs another hill on the lower section of Zippy Da Do Da

The Touareg with the swing-arm hitch-mounted bike carrier -- very cool bike carrier

Golden, Colorado (map)

Two themes of our climbing trip to Colorado -- Hemp, and "Just put it off"

An early morning with "The Greeks"

Nikos, Fanni, and Tom standing on driveway discussing routes

The morning after the big bash…everyone is drinking water to treat the hangover

Great Falls (map)

Potomac River

Tad on the Lost Arrow, not really solo
Lost Arrow

Jim on PVO, TRing something way to hard
P.V.O. (Potomac Valley Overhang)

Hema following an awesome layback flake of Great Beginnings
Great Beginnings

Guangzhou (China) (map)

Eric's bathroom

Brainless goats in the meat market

View from the ferry up the Pearl River

Street life in Guangzhou

Jim on ferry going up the Pearl River

Lion dancer in the streets of Guangzhou

Backwards instructions

Vegetables in the street market

Hawaii (map)

Boogie boarding in the surf, somewhere on the north shore

Lucie shows how it's done

Lucie models the boogie board

Hellgate Gulch (map)

Tommy sending at Hellgate
Uncomfortably Numb

Aimless wandering through the compact canyon, trying to identify things

Colin leads up the awesome wall
Weird Science

Colin leads up the awesome wall
Weird Science

Colin leads up the awesome wall
Weird Science

Colin leads up the awesome wall
Weird Science

Colin leads up the awesome wall
Weird Science

Not much difference between the 11s and the 9s on this wall
Melt Down

Not much difference between the 11s and the 9s on this wall
Melt Down

Tommy sending at Hellgate
Uncomfortably Numb

Hong Kong (China) (map)

Downtown Hong Kong

Hong Kong Island from the ferry

Danger sign…don't climb here!

View of Kowloon from Lion Rock

Eric at the belay on Catastrophe
The Arete

Jim at the belay on Catastrophe
The Arete

View of Lion Rock from the approach trail

Eric following the first pitch of Catastrophe
The Arete

Jim at the belay on Catastrophe
The Arete

Lion Rock from the approach trail

Hyalite (map)

Climbing the thin column on Omega; the ice was running with water
Omega

The main fork of Hyalite Canyon; Winter Dance is the spear of ice on the rock face centered in the photo

Hyalite Canyon as seen from the first pitch of Cleopatra's Needle

View from the second pitch of Cleopatra's Needle; you can see Joe on Twin Falls Left, belayed by Ellen in the trees below
Twin Falls Left

Taking a rest on the approach to Cleopatra's Needle and Twin Falls

Reaching for a screw on the second pitch (WI5)
Cleopatra's Needle

Tommy stays dry by climbing the right side of the pillar
Cleopatra's Needle

Independence Pass (map)

Monitor Rock looks like a choss pile, but it's sooo much better than it looks

Tommy struggles with the first crux on Rad Lad
Rad Lad

Climbing the beautiful compact rock on Squid Kid
Squid Kid

Face climbing on the Maze, a long bolted line on Monitor Rock
The Maze

Tom and Mioara huddled at the second belay on The Mother Load
The Mother Load

Tom leads the final pitch
The Mother Load

Want some beans?

Indian Creek (map)

A view of Indian Creek from Optimator Wall; the wall centered in the photo is Reservior Wall, and the 4x4 Wall is on the right

Another pretty view of Indian Creek as seen from the base of the Bridger Jack Mesa

Yet another pretty view of Indian Creek as seen from the Bridger Jack Camping Area

A yellow-headed (or "eastern") collared lizard

Closeup of a yellow-headed (or "eastern") collared lizard

A typical Indian Creek rack featuring lots of same-sized cams

Labeled Indian Creek rack

Enjoying a mini-bottle of single malt at camp

Self-portrait at the Bridger Jack Camping Area

Chris sends Swedin-Ringle, making it look like 5.10
Sweden-Ringle

Chris sends Swedin-Ringle, making it look like 5.10
Sweden-Ringle

Chris sends Swedin-Ringle, making it look like 5.10
Sweden-Ringle

Near the top of the crack Colin finally gets a rest by stemming to the opposite wall
Cave Route

Another endless layback crack at Battle of the Bulge
Three Strikes and You're Out

Brian approaches the top of Easter Island
Thunderbolts

Closeup of Brian approaching the top of Easter Island
Keyhole Flakes

The Bridger Jack Mesa with all the towers labeled

The Bridger Jack Mesa in the early morning

The Bridger Jack Mesa in the early morning

Sitting on top of Easter Island after climbing Thunderbolts
Thunderbolts

Climbing the first pitch (5.8) involves fun jamming, followed by an unlikely traverse right around the nose above
Thunderbolts

The Bridger Jacks as seen from the west

Organizing the rack for the days climbing

Colin poses for the camera on the 4th pitch (5.11a) of Rimshot; he is positioned at the first rest after the tight sandy-hands crack above the belay
Rimshot

More off-width climbing on the 4th pitch
Rimshot

Exiting the chimney at the top of the second pitch; from his position, the climb moves left (climber's right) onto lower-angled slabs up to the belay
Rimshot

The third pitch traverses left in a chimney to an off-width crack in the main face
Rimshot

Getting established in the off-width crack above the chimney on the third pitch
Rimshot

Hanging out at the base of Easter Island

Jim's shadow on Sunflower Tower as he raps from Easter Island
Thunderbolts

John tops out on Thunderbolts, a rare face climb at the Creek
Thunderbolts

A topo showing Rimshot
Rimshot

Starting out on Generic Crack; the crux of the route are the two pods just above
Generic Crack

About halfway up the crack
Generic Crack

Closeup of Jim about halfway up the crack
Generic Crack

Still about halfway up the crack
Generic Crack

Nearing the anchors at 140'
Generic Crack

Dave peeks around the corner before heading out onto the left-slanting crack on Lady Pillar
Lady Pillar

This awesome zig-zag crack goes through all sizes, taking two each from yellow Camalot to yellow Alien; this section is fairly easy since the crack is hand sized
Anunnaki

At this point, the crack narrows to off-hands and rattley fingers
Anunnaki

Moving through the crux involves weird layaways, finger stacks, and powerful pulls
Anunnaki

Laybacking up the steep finger crack on Skidmarks
Skidmarks

Jamming the final crack high in the Sabbatical corner, belayed by Brian
Sabbatical

This nice finger crack was easier for me since my large knuckles cammed well in the crack
Working Man

John at the second belay on the South Face
South Face

On the summit of the South Six Shooter
South Face

John poses on the summit
South Face

Lucie walks the mesa above the valley floor; this area is very pristine, quiet, and beautiful

Some rough 4X4 driving on Davis Canyon Road leads into the South Six Shooter valley

The South Six Shooter as seen from the upper mesa

The Touareg parked in the wash at the start of the hike to the South Six Shooter; the Bridger Jacks can be seen on the skyline centered

Brian reaches left at the crux, belayed by Mioara
Keyhole Flakes

Brian high on the route just below the anchors
Keyhole Flakes

Moving through the bottom finger-sized section of the route
Bad Rad Duality Crack

Moving through the bottom finger-sized section of the route; the crack widens to tight hands, then offwidth, then back to tight hands through the double-tiered roofs above
Bad Rad Duality Crack

Jim climbs The Incredible Hand Crack, belayed by Brian; most people find this climb a pleasure, but my large large hands didn't fit the crack and made the crux overhanging section very strenuous
The Incredible Hand Crack

What a beast this was -- a 7" off-width section, then a blind reach rightwards into a good finger crack
Unnamed #18

After placing a nut (the only nut I placed that trip), I finally got established in the finger crack
Unnamed #18

Closeup of Jim after placing the nut
Unnamed #18

Higher in the finger crack
Unnamed #18

Mioara follows Supercrack, one of the more well-known climbs at Indian Creek
Supercrack

Closeup of Mioara following Supercrack
Supercrack

Laybacking the rattly finger start of Coyne Crack
Coyne Crack

Higher up, the crack turns to tight hands
Coyne Crack

Posing in front of the "Brick" at the Supercrack Buttress parking lot

Inman Gulf (map)

Traversing to the belay on a new route
It's In, Man

Route possibilities at Inman Gulf; the climb "It's In, Man" is centered in the photo

At the belay on the first ascent
It's In, Man

Jim climbs poorly bonded ice on the first ascent
It's In, Man

Leading the first ascent of a flow across from Rainbow Falls
Over The Rainbow

Ithaca (map)

High on the pillar the ice is fractured and thin, with water visible through the ice veil
Estes Point Pillar

Jim belays Leslie on the steep section of the pillar
Estes Point Pillar

The climb as seen from the streambed
Estes Point Pillar

Jamesville (map)

Summit headquarters

Joshua Tree (map)

Allen begins a lead
Unknown

John organizes the rack on an early visit to Joshua Tree

Flowering joshua tree

Steep ground in the Bighorn Mating Grotto
Dangling Woo Li Master

Taped up hands after a day of climbing in the Bighorn Mating Grotto; notice the Disney band-aid on the middle finger

Steck's favorite route
Pinched Rib

Kimbrough in the early morning

High on the runout plates of Disneyland Dome
Enchanted Stairway

Lori approaches the first belay; the ledge is actually a dike that, if continued, turns into Mental Bankruptcy
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride

Phil places gear at the intimidating roof near the start of the climb
Hang Ten

Clipping the gear at the roof; hard to believe it's only 5.8
Hang Ten

This interesting route starts with a hard boulder problem, then traverses just left 5 bolts about 10' above the ground, then finishing straight up to some chains
Eileen Dover

A little further along in the traverse; lots for the hands, but little for the feet
Eileen Dover

The opening, unprotected moves of Effigy Too
Effigy Too

Effigy Too is a nice route for sunny days as it's in the shade. The huge boulder high and left is the EBGBs boulder.
Effigy Too

The climbing eases near the top of the route
Effigy Too

Eric belaying at the top, construction in the background
Sitting Here in Limbo

Lucie, Allen, and Joe (and his dog)

John leads yet another bolt-protected face climb
Casual

Strenuous underclings are required right off the ground on a fragile flake
Diamond Dogs

Unprotected knob climbing at the start of yet another Todd Swain route
Pullups To Pasadena

Todd demonstrates a pretty lizard

Andrew watches the action on Garden Angel
Garden Angel

Weird layback moves up the arete of Garden Angel
Garden Angel

Weird layback moves up the arete of Garden Angel
Garden Angel

Matt makes the opening moves on Lazy Day
Lazy Day

Allen leading Cryptic
Cryptic

Allen leading Cryptic
Cryptic

Allen leading Cryptic
Cryptic

Yvon at the opening moves on the Headstone
Southwest Corner

Yvon high up on the Southwest Corner
Southwest Corner

John leads a too-short crack on the backside of the Headstone
Practice Crack #1

Lori and Jim pose on top of the Headstone

Working through the crux of the Southwest Corner, a spectacular easy route on the Headstone
Southwest Corner

Painting of the "snail"

Joe following the first pitch of Poodles
Poodles are People Too

Tall people can simply reach left and bypass any difficulty; not sure what short people do
Head Over Heels

Yvon nearing the top of Hidden Tower
Wild Wind

Thin face moves characterize climbing on this route
Dazed and Confused

Runout climbing in a sea of granite
Dazed and Confused

Lori reaches the top after a long, rope-stretching 2nd pitch
Bird on a Wire

Lori and Jim pose on top of the Manure Pile at dusk

Allen at the crux of Left Mel Crack
Left Mel Crack

Checking out the pencil cactus

Climbing the height-related crux of the Left Mel Crack
Left Mel Crack

At the second bolt, high on the Pea Brain
Joan Jetson

Allen laces up for the Peyote cracks

Having lunch near Hound Rock

Coyote near the road; if you look carefully, you can see a second coyote in the background

Pulling the final difficulties on Illusion Dweller
Illusion Dweller

Long reaches on overhanging rock constitute the crux of Clean and Jerk
Clean and Jerk

One of the best hand/fist cracks in the park
Clean and Jerk

John Morton belays a climber on Ball Bearing
Ball Bearing

Beverly describes her experience on Illusion Dweller to the others

Opening moves -- despite the rating of 5.10c, the initial moves are 5.11a
O'Kelley's Crack

Simon, waiting for his morning coffee

The gang, gathered in Joshua Tree

The whole gang

Hanging out at Ryan Campground

Joshua Tree in the early morning light

Hanging out at the campfire in Ryan

Lucie avoids the wind by sitting in a rock alcove

Lucie on her way to painting at the end of the day

Joshua Tree near Ryan Campground

Allen gets organized around camp

Late afternoon relaxation at camp

Deep contemplation

Beverly warms around her morning coffee

Breakfast at the Jones'

Breakfast at Ryan

Maguy enjoys her morning coffee

Thackray enjoying the conviviality at camp

Low on the all time perfect crack
Illusion Dweller

Lost in a sea of rock
Illusion Dweller

Eric and Lucie lounging at the belay at sunset
Walk on the Wild Side

The route Junk Food traverses the Junk Clump formation on a quartz dike; it begins with two bolts, then crosses three other routes
Junk Food

A route on the Shorter Wall, the right-hand side of the Rock Garden Valley
Born in a Barn

Martin shredding his fingers on Solid Gold
Solid Gold

Following up the sharp edges of Solid Gold; this climb is quite the finger shredder
Solid Gold

Simon leading the lower section of Solid Gold
Solid Gold

Jim Lawyer and Allen Steck on Rubicon
Rubicon

Beverly racks up for Sphincter Quits

Beverly sews up the lower crack, then moves up to the rest alcove
Sphincter Quits

Beverly moves up to the first bolt
Trembling Toes

The crux is the section just before the roof on the left where the crack is tight hands
No Self Confidence

Steep, sustained crack climbing in the midsection of the route
No Self Confidence

Feeling pumped, this is the last rest before running it out to the top
No Self Confidence

At dusk on the Memorial Route
Allen Steck Memorial Route

Following the all-time classic hand crack
Double Cross

Leading the initial stemming corner of Orphan; if you can stomach the off-width at the top, this is an excellent climb
Orphan

Tad climbing the "burnt penis"
Boogers On A Lampshade

Tad climbing the "burnt penis"
Boogers On A Lampshade

Making the crux moves on Boogers; the high bolt protects this section
Boogers on a Lampshade

After the crux; the next piece is the tied off chicken head visible just above
Boogers on a Lampshade

Pretty rocks

Tad and Chris in the Wonderland with the Astro Domes in the background

Chris near Disneyland Dome in the Wonderland

Cool rocks in the Wonderland

Lunch break on the ledge system in front of the Astro Domes

Lucie walking through the Wonderland

In the midst of the crux at Sheepbugger's Wall; the difficulty here is that the protection is at your feet while making the crux .11 moves…below that is a ledge!
Drop Zone

Allen resting in the Wonderland

About to make the crux moves on the first pitch
Figures on a Landscape

John Morton traverses across to the first belay
Figures on a Landscape

Pack adjustments on the way into the Wonderland

Lori hiking around the Wonderland

Joe gears up for "Mr Toad's"
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride

Tom sends Solid Gold
Solid Gold

Kama Bay (Canada) (map)

The climb Icebreaker as seen from the top of Whimpsickle; the body of water in the background is Kama Bay on Lake Superior
Icebreakers

Climbing Icebreakers Arete in early season
Icebreakers Arete

The crux of Icebreakers Arete involved climbing an overhanging cauliflower of ice
Icebreakers Arete

Tommy climbs poor ice at bottom third of Whimpsickle; this climb is anything but whimpy, as we found it to be one of the harder routes we climbed
Whimpsickle

Kandersteg (Switzerland) (map)

Looking across the valley to ski resort on the sunny side

The little town of Kandersteg surrounded by high mountains
 

The little town of Kandersteg surrounded by high mountains

The ice flows above Kandersteg - amazing amount and variety

At the base of the fragile pillar
Bäretritt

We climbed the rock on the left to avoid breaking the fragile pillar
Bäretritt

High on the route, pumped, and looking for a belay
Bäretritt

Traversing left at the start of P2
Arbonium

Approaching the ice climbs above Kandersteg. The free-standing pillar above him is Rattenpissoir.

Belaying on top of P1
Arbonium

Following the steep pillars of P2
Arbonium

Swinging a tool on the final steep pitch
Arbonium

Climber works up the amazing free-standing pillar
Rattenpissoir

We climbed the first section of this "beginner" route
Namenlos

La Cabrera (Spain) (map)

At dinner after climbing at La Cabrera, Lucie and Jen examine Pedro's flying book

Carlos climbs a difficult thin crack
Unknown

Carlos and Monolo discuss route options at the first belay
Esteban Altieri

Jim and Belen pack for the hike back to the car after a full day climbing

The crag as seen from the parking area just before sunset

Unknown climber finishes the third pitch (6b)
José María Alaiz

La Pedriza (Spain) (map)

Belen belaying in a mess of ropes at the top of the top of the second pitch (V+)
Guirles-Campos

Belen runs it out up the third and fourth pitches (V, V+)
Guirles-Campos

Belen belays at the top of the 4th pitch
Guirles-Campos

Goats scamper around the cliff

Jesús approaches the belay leading the second pitch (V+)
Guirles-Campos

This route demanded thin laybacking, high-angle friction, and tiny crimping and was the most difficult route I climbed at La Pedriza
Vía del Gesto

Pedro packing gear for the hike out with El Yelmo in the background

Pedro climbs the crack in the middle of the first pitch (6a)
Caballo Blanco

Pedro pulls the roof near the end of the first pitch (6a)
Caballo Blanco

El Yelmo at sunset; this south face has in excess of 50 multi-pitch routes

El Yelmo showing the routes we climbed

Laguna (Philippines) (map)

Eric and Martin pose for the camera

Lake Willoughby (map)

Leading the fragile third pitch of the Gentleman
The Last Gentleman

Ade at the belay after the traverse from The Promenade
The Last Gentleman

Plug and Chug, Mindbender, and Renormalization
Mindbender

French climbers at the first belay on the Gentleman
The Last Gentleman

Close-up of climber leading the second pitch of the Gentleman in fat conditions
The Last Gentleman

Climber leading the second pitch of the Gentleman in fat conditions
The Last Gentleman

Will high on the final column of Mindbender
Mindbender

Ice cliffs of Mt. Pisgah

Boney Boy

Will starting the second pitch out of the cave
Mindbender

Will leading the crux columns of The Promenade
The Promenade

Will dry-tooling the first 200' of Glass Menagerie in [obviously] thin conditions (WI5, M6)
Glass Menagerie

Jim and Will gearing up at the base
Glass Menagerie

Jim leading the initial sections of Mindbender
Mindbender

Jim nearing the cave at the top of the first pitch of The Promenade
The Promenade

Reign of Terror as seen from The Promenade
Reign of Terror

The route Bullwinkle climbs the steep, fractured columns that hang down the overhanging rock face
Bullwinkle

One of the best ice routes in the East, Called on Account of Rains rarely forms to the ground; this photo shows the route in WI5 condition
Called on Account of Rains

Tom and Simeon at the cave belay on top of the first pitch
Called on Account of Rains

Leading the thin ice on the first pitch of Called; the route steepens just above, then stretches the rope to the cave visible beneath a hanging pillar on the right
Called on Account of Rains

The crux of the route climbs is the steeper section of ice just below the cave belay
Called on Account of Rains

The amphitheatre containing the Last Gentleman, Promenade, and Who's Who; there are two parties on the Gentleman and a part of three on the Promenade

A party of three climbs the first pitch of Promenade
The Promenade

Simeon starts the second pitch
Called on Account of Rains

Tommy takes the right-hand line of ice on the top pitch
Called on Account of Rains

Tommy takes the right-hand line of ice on the top pitch
Called on Account of Rains

A climber leads the first pitch of Who's Who in delaminated conditions
Who's Who in Outer Space

Leavenworth (map)

Toproping back when it was cool to do so (5.11d)
Doin' The Dishes

Ade follows the crux pitch, a spectacular bolt-protected face
Heart Of Gold

Kristy enjoying the perfect 5.9 flake on the third pitch
Orbit

Kristy at the belay below the knobby-faced top pitches
Orbit

Climbing an arete in Icicle Creek Canyon
Don't Forget Arete

Lima (Peru) (map)

Chickens and chicken bits at the market in Lima

A protest in one of the squares in downtown Lima

Little Cottenwood Canyon (map)

Low down on Coffin Crack
Coffin Crack

Little Falls (map)

Kind of a crappy picture, but shows my early climbing days -- wool knickers, Fires, and a hammer
Unknown

Bouldering on Moss Island
Green Traverse

Lost Horse Canyon (map)